Hungry? Eat this!

Hungry? Eat this!

For the record, “Italian Food” is SO much more than pizza, spaghetti, ravioli and fettucine alfredo. In fact, “fettucine alfredo” doesn’t exist except in the restaurants catering to tourists away from home looking for their favorite edible myth.

Hold your hand up in front of you with your thumb and forefinger a half inch apart. That measures the typical range Americans imagine of the variety of food in Italy. Now, stick your arms straight out to your sides. That’s the REAL measure of the bountiful range of edible deliciousness you’ll encounter in Italy. And that bounty is not at all spread uniformly throughout “the boot”. You can go 50 kilometers and find a completely different food culture. There are some foods you’ll find in one town only.

I urge you. When you answer that call to go explore Italy, please don’t fall back on ordering pizza, spaghetti and ravioli. Sure, they will be good, and not like what you’ve had in America. Rather, find out what the local specialty is and eat it with gusto. And please, whatever you do, don’t seek out that well-known, international hamburger chain. You’ll be in the land of good food! Eat well! You might just find your next, new favorite dish.

In the last month, I stayed in the north of Italy: Milano, Sanremo, Genova, Pavia and small towns scattered in the hills south of Milan. The following photos show a selection of the dishes I ate with great pleasure.

(For contrast, check out Eating the South to see some of the foods I enjoyed when I traveled in Sicily, the southern coast and “heel of the boot” in 2011.)

(Click on the first photo to view the images “plate-size” and click through the slide show.)
 

So hot I’m sweating in the middle of the night

Hand-sewn, vintage linen is not enough to help stay cool close to midnight on what was a 95-degree day with high humidity, now the windows closed up tight to keep the mosquitoes out, and a pair of fans pointing straight at me. Choose: be kept awake by the “I’m gonna get you” high whine of the mosquito aloft on fresh air, or the “I’m so hot I’m sweating in the middle of the night” whine amidst the white noise of fans. Nearing midnight, and facing eight hours of pondering the question, I really wrestle with the choice. Cool air sounds so good right now, but I spent all last night battling the little buggers that sampled me from head-to-toe. I could open the windows at any time. But, once open, if even one mosquito’s gotten in, it’s all over for the night’s sleep.

Five days ago the weather decisively did the switcheroo. Following coolly/warmly pleasant, we had a downpour that would have drenched you in 30 seconds. The next day, we awoke to dry pavement, humid air and a change… Summer came like that! Poof. Bingo. No going back… or not until fall sometime.

I may very well open the windows, turn the fans on high to – theoretically – blow the mosquitoes away from my body, and take cover under a cotton sheet and hope for the best. No air conditioning in this student apartment!

Buona notte.

Update: 4:00 a.m.
I wasn’t actually sleeping. The mosquitoes had won. So I got up. I’ll take a siesta later today.

 

Tongue on Rye at Katz’s in New York City

Tongue on Rye at Katz’s in New York City

 

What tour of New York City would be complete without a tour through meat-lover’s shrine, Katz’s Delicatessen, at 205 East Houston Street? Just walk through the door and you’re handed a number. Get in line. Sit down and really fill up, or take it out the door with you. A pastrami sandwich could last several meals on its own, (easily putting you into meat and salt overload).

Granted, we didn’t actually eat there (we had already eaten… Italian), but witnessed a line at the counter, the tables full, a big pastrami sandwich awaiting delivery to its table and plenty of satisfied eaters. It was more of a local, cultural pilgrimage that begged obeisance.

From Katz’s web site:

“It would not have been possible for Katz’s Delicatessen to survive three depressions, numerous recessions, and two World Wars if we weren’t the best in NYC. Since opening in 1888, Katz’s Deli has maintained the tradition of quality that made us a beloved deli among the immigrants who crowded into the Lower East Side one hundred years ago. Generation after generation has stood before the carvers, watching as they skillfully slice a pile of pastrami, turkey, or corned beef by hand. It’s the exceptional taste that has carried our name far beyond NYC. Over the last century, a lot has changed- the skyline, technology- but Katz’s Delicatessen has been a cooking up the same food for 125 years, and will continue for years to come.”

Samples from the neon menu sign:

  • Tongue on Rye Sandwich $17.45
  • Knoblewurst on Rye Sandwich $14.95
  • Pastrami on Rye Sandwich $18.45
  • Hard Salami on Rye Sandwich $15.25
  • Chopped Liver Sandwich on Rye $14.25
  • 1/2 Sandwich & Matzoh Ball Soup $16.45