by Maureen | Jun 19, 2011 | Church, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Journal, Photo of the Day, Photos, Quips, Venezia - Venice
A couple of days ago I went to Venice for the day just because I could. In a few days it’ll no longer be so simple to do.
My fourth or fifth time there, this visit was entirely different. I wasn’t on a mission, I wasn’t in a mad dash to fill the memory card of my (still-malfunctioning) camera. I wandered in a very relaxed, spontaneous, slow manner and it was nice. (Read my previous posts here.)
“Benvenuti a Venezia” – Welcome to Venice.
San Marco square, the large piazza in front of San Marco Cathedral, is the destination for every visitor stepping off the boat or train into Venice. (That and the Rialto Bridge.) All signs point to San Marco, guiding the flow of foot traffic.
And yet, upon arriving at San Marco, it is FORBIDDEN (on threat of fine) to simply sit in the piazza to enjoy the sights. This law is entirely contrary to the countrywide custom of the main plaza being the “living room” and gathering place within an Italian city. In fact, there is NO place to sit in Venice unless a visitor orders food and pays a cover charge to sit at a table. This astounds me.
As I’ve learned about Venice, there are major walking routes always filled with tourists. But step off those routes onto the side streets, and the city becomes very quiet and local.
Italy is wall-papered with supergraphic advertising, even covering classic, historic buildings. This Mario Testino ad created a blue channel through which the gondolas floated.
by Maureen | Jun 15, 2011 | Incredible Locations, Introspection, Journal, Quips, Venezia - Venice
“I think I’ll go to Venice for the day…”
It’s so outlandish to say that, and it’s not often that I CAN just go to Venice for the day, that I’m going to! I bought train tickets for tomorrow and will leave in the morning, wander around, have a nice meal or two at the good restaurants I know there, then come home in the evening.
The train trip is about two and a half hours each way and has none of the stress of driving a car somewhere. (And I’ve driven much farther/longer than that for the day!)
The Biennale di Venezia International Art Exhibition is on right now, so the place will be packed with people and art in every corner.
And I know a few people there, so I can stop and say “ciao”.
A little Venetian jaunt as my last hurrah before I leave next week. How perfect. (I love Venice.)
by Maureen | Jun 13, 2010 | Featured Articles, Food!, Incredible Locations, Journal, Meals, People, Photos, Venezia - Venice
Last September, with just a few clues in hand, I wandered around Venice in search of Trattoria da Ignazio. Having heard about the exquisite meals freshly prepared by Signora Ada, I was disappointed to find the restaurant closed for the day, but vowed to return. With wide eyes, my wonderful Italian teacher in Bellevue, Josefina, had raved about the trattoria.
At the top of the list for my visit to Venice last week with my friend, Sally, was a dinner at Signora Ada’s. I was able to navigate right to the trattoria (an amazing feat in Venice) and was surprised by it’s large size. I had expected a much smaller restaurant with one woman in the kitchen. I was puzzled and thought that maybe someone else had taken over the restaurant.
We entered and were greeted by a waiter in a white tux. I asked if Signora Ada was still there. The waiter immediately went to the kitchen and I heard him say (of course in Italian), “Signora Ada, someone’s out here asking for you.”
This pixie-like, spry woman with a bright yellow scarf tied around her neck came out to say hello. I relayed what I had been told of her, and that I had been “commanded” to eat there. We talked for a few minutes, two short women, eye-to-eye. Her sparkling warmth was a delight. We were told she’s been cooking for 70 years (?!)
The restaurant has a large internal dining room, and an even larger outer courtyard, with a vine-covered trellis ceiling. (Choosing to avoid cigarette smoke while we were eating, Sally and I chose the inner dining room.)
I began my meal with Cape Sante au gratin, delicious scallops baked in their shells.
We were well-tended by our waiter, Fausto, who recommended the whole, baked branzino. He even brought it to us on a tray before cooking; it looked like it had been caught just 5 minutes earlier! We ate our appetizers, drank some of the house wine, and then were presented with the fish when simply cooked to perfection with just a little olive oil.
Here’s Fausto, ready to debone the fish for us.
The fish was moist and succulent. Not overdone one minute! Delicate and so freshly flavored.
During the meal, I had to get up and take a peak in the kitchen. Signora Ada was hard at work putting her expert touch into each dish for every fortunate restaurant patron.
After our long and wonderful meal, Sally and I went back to the kitchen door to say goodbye. Signora Ada and I chatted a few minutes more, gave each other kisses on both cheeks, and shared twinkles in our eyes. Her Trattoria da Ignazio is a must for any visit to Venezia!
TRATTORIA DA IGNAZIO
2749, S. Polo – VENEZIA (VE)
Tel: 041.5234852
Web: www.trattoriadaignazio.com
by Maureen | Oct 6, 2009 | Featured Articles, Photos, Venezia - Venice
It seems that gondolas (gondole) are the worldwide symbol of Venice. The tourists love the show of the sleek boats and their often-stripe-shirted boatsmen (gondolieri). By evening time, wandering around Venice, accordion music and deep-throated song floats up from the canals, answering the dreams of those that have paid for rides, and adding to the Venice Experience of those out for evening strolls.
by Maureen | Oct 6, 2009 | Featured Articles, Journal, Photos, Venezia - Venice
Journal Entry: 12 September 2009
(I know… It’s been a few weeks since I traveled there, but it’s been a busy time…)
“This place SO stimulates my senses. It absolutely delights my eyes at every turn. Every crop. Every surface. Every combination of signage and stone and wrought iron. I could wander this place indefinitely.
“I decided spontaneously just a couple days ago to come to Venice as a way to celebrate my birthday. (Why spend another weekend in my apartment in Milan? This is why I’m here. Venice is just 2.5 hours away!)
“When I arrived at the Santa Lucia train station from Milano here in Venezia, I felt such ease and familiarity. I was only here 2 nights last year, but wandered enough that I have some sense of the place. I saw many of the locations and details that I had photographed and I felt such connection! I had been looking at those photos intensely for a year and knew the places intimately. It’s surprising the sense of belonging I feel.
“This is such a place of visionary pilgrimage. So far, one of my favorite places in the world. It is lush and stimulating. Venice gives me such pure delight!”
Here are a few photos from around town…
Look at this iron lamp! And in the dragon’s mouth hang three umbrellas with blown glass inserts. THAT ironwork takes the prize!
