by Maureen | Aug 29, 2009 | Canals, Journal, Quips
I rode along the canal this evening. It’s shifted. The seasons are changing. The temperature may be a couple degrees cooler. It may all look a little different. But the biggest difference is in the scent of the ride. The silage is very rank and strong. There’s fruit somewhere that’s past ripe and oversweet. The rice paddies have been drained and smell freshly cut. The poplars at canalside have reached their season’s end and smell of riversides in Eastern Washington. I even caught a whiff of Nicaragua, and identified the wood smoke in that whiff.
This is a time of my senses. Of being keenly tuned in. Of paying attention. I’m in another world, and yet it brings me to other worlds known.
I could hardly be more attentive. More observant. More inquisitive. There is nothing like this moment. I am alive to the fullness of it. I am very aware of all this time holds for me.
by Maureen | Aug 26, 2009 | Introspection, Ireland, Journal, Quips
I’m Home! Just returned from Ireland tonight and it FELT like coming home. For all the challenges and the treasures, the frustrations and delights, this is home for me at this moment, and it’s good to be back.
There was limited internet access while I was in Ireland, thus my limited posts. Besides, I was out exploring rather than being inside at the computer!
But I shot LOTS of photos and will upload more “in my spare time”. Meanwhile, I’ve got unpacking to do and then back at it…
by Maureen | Aug 21, 2009 | Discoveries, Featured Articles, Ireland, Journal
At the far edge of Northern Ireland, jutting toward the north Athlantic along the Antrim Coast, the Giant’s Causeway is a heaven of columnar basalt. (As a rock fiend, I swooned.) The Causeway Head starts at a high point and sweeps down into the Atlantic tides, allowing stair-stepped exploration, yet daring visitors to test their courage at the water’s edge. (The dangers are real. The slippery rocks and crashing waters claim someone every year.)
My biggest question was “How can I get one of these rocks home to my yard?”
http://www.giantscausewayireland.com/
by Maureen | Aug 21, 2009 | Featured Articles, Ireland, Journal, People
This is what one comes to Ireland to experience: a pint of Guinness and some traditional music. It was after 10:00 on Wednesday night and we walked the half dozen blocks into the town of Carndonagh for “Trad Night” at the Persian Bar. There were 4 or 5 people in the pub and the place was near empty. We took seats at the bar, right across from the table where the to-be-gathered musicians would sit. Within 10 minutes, the place started to fill, and musicians gathered around their table, including the 3 Henry Sisters. The music started at 10:55.
I joked with the bartender, saying that I was doing a Calendar of Irish Bartenders.
The Inishowen Henry Sisters
Joleen, Lorna and Karen Henry are three of six sisters from Inishowen. Their music has been described as traditional, folk, bluesy, roots, world and contemporary, an eclectic mix of their individual and collective musical experiences. The Henry Girls released their first album ‘Between Us’ in 2002 to widespread critical acclaim and giving the group access to a wider audience.
http://www.dun-na-ngall.com/nw92.html
“Convivial” is absolutely the word I’d use to describe the nature of the people here. Everyone is immediately a “cousin”, (many of them truly so). Conversations sprout readily whether lubricated by a Guinness or not. And there’s something about the lilting music in the voice of the Irish that speaks of welcome.
Trad Night is off-the-cuff spontaneous, yielding songs both mellow and lively. When James Nonne, the local storyteller, began his bawdy, rhyming recitations the patrons in the packed pub would “shush” each other loudly, and then give a round of applause with his story told.
Ballads/Stories:
“Galway Bay/Young Farmer”
“Bonnie Black Hair”
“The Rangy Ribs I Bought from Mickey Dhu”
One cousin’s advice about getting to know people here: “Never say ‘no’ to the cup of tea.” (That doesn’t look like a cup of tea in his hand…)
Another cousin’s comment about the reception he expected from his wife when he got home that night (when he had only been expecting to be gone for a short evening): “A cold shoulder and a hot tongue.”
by Maureen | Aug 20, 2009 | Ireland, Journal
2:00 a.m. Just back from the pub, “The Persian Bar” in Carndonagh, Ireland, in Inishowen, the northernmost region of County Donegal, in the Republic of Ireland . THIS is why people come to Ireland and THIS is what they hope to find! Wednesday night at The Persian is “Trad Night”, the night of traditional music. Six or seven random musicians showed up and filled the room with music from their harp, tin whistle, guitar, accordion, fiddle, and banjo. They sang ballads, folk songs, American classics …and accompanied some “recitations”, (readings of traditional, ballad-style poems).
The Guinness flowed freely and the place was packed with patrons, 17 – 70. This was not a tourist show, as would be found in the big city hubs. This was just the locals getting together to have some fun and pass a rainy, Wednesday evening.
I shot many photos, handheld, adjusted for the dark pub lighting, but my camera card reader is at “the house” where I’m staying, and I will likely just stay here tonight. …And so, post more later. But I will fall asleep pleased. Tonight’s gathering embodied what I’ve always heard of Ireland (following a full day of neighborly comings and goings).
Tomorrow, we have more exploration to do. (“Giant’s Causeway”. Google THAT!) Hmm. Who knows when I’ll have a chance to sit inside the house, download photos and post to this blog… Hmm. Who cares?
by Maureen | Aug 17, 2009 | Discoveries, Journal
The ubiquitous crow comes in a different color pattern here. These birds are often in the fields and grassy areas either along the canal or in the city parks. I was intrigued by their standard crow-shape with what is for me a non-standard, gray-brown collar and apron. It’s the Hooded Crow, Corvus cornix.
Since these crows are hard to get close to and I don’t have a better camera for bird-watching, I found this image on the web by Lars Kapelrud in Norway. Lars was kind enough to let me post this photo.
If you’d like to read more about the Hooded Crow, including watching a video of them in action, check out the post on AviBirds.com.
by Maureen | Aug 15, 2009 | Featured Articles, Journal, Photo of the Day, Photos
15 Agosto – Ferragosto. A major Italian holiday, the high, midpoint of the Italian exodus month, and “the day when Roman Catholics believe the Virgin Mary ascended into heaven”. Having heard about this being such a big-deal holiday, and knowing that I’d be in town, I made a special trip a few days ago to the tourist information office to find out what would be going on.
The calendar they gave me listed a parade scheduled to march from the Castello to the Piazza dei Mercanti, right next to the Duomo Cathedral. Great! I wanted to be there. With Italy being such a Catholic country, and this being a feast to honor the Assumption of Mary, I thought there would be statues and images of Mary carried through the streets toward the cathedral. I thought there’d be a great outpouring of traditional veneration for our saints and religious figures.
Nope. Instead, I found a group of “LatinoAmericando” music and dance groups. The Peruvians presented their traditional expressions, but other groups were more appropriate for mardi gras and carnevale. The women were hardly presented as virginal! Does a feather here and a sequin there count as clothing?
And I usually think of “Latin America” as including those countries in Central America, but didn’t see them represented. And I’m in Italy! How did Latin America co-opt this holiday? Easy. The Italians have all left town!
So I, and other immigrants and tourists, lined the parade route, got dusted by the feathers dancing by and tapped our feet to the sounds of drums and Andean flutes. The tourist-catering restaurants were doing a booming business in gnocchi and gelato.
Here’s another amusing synopsis of August and Ferragosto, by another blogger:
http://www.upperitaly.net/index.php?id=68
by Maureen | Aug 14, 2009 | Featured Articles, Graffiti & Street Art, Journal, Photos
When they told me you could play football in the streets of Milan during the month of August, they weren’t joking! I had been asked the standard question, “where are you going for August?” Fortunately, I had already made plans for Ischia and Ireland during the month.
The Italians are serious about their month-long vacations at the peak of summer heat. Those I know have left for France, Spain, Poland, Tunisia… anywhere but here! Around town, the only faces are of immigrants, tourists and, I guess, those rare Italians that have no other place to go. I’ve never seen so much parking available on the street, and probably won’t again for another year.
This month of August, I’ve got to assume that a business is closed. Most are sealed tight with their graffitied, roll-down doors posted with the sign “Chiuso per Ferie” – Closed for Vacation – and the date they’ll return. Closure is a given. Those that remain open advertise loudly that they are, but they retain a skeleton staff and few patrons. Hardly a soul to talk to, except the Kenyan woman behind the meat counter at the grocery store, and the little old lady in the produce department that I had a nice conversation with.
I had been buying my bottled water a half block away at the corner carry-out. Well, they’re spending a nice vacation somewhere, so now I carry my bottled water 4 blocks and buy it two liters at a time instead of 6. It gets heavy, but I can walk down the middle of the street while I do it.
The country’s big newspaper, Corriere della Serra, ran a “photo of the day” showing the wide-open, empty streets of Milan.
by Maureen | Aug 14, 2009 | Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia, Quips
Ahh, my wonderful sister (yes, she really is), always mindful of the details, asked me to update my map to show where the island of Ischia is. You can now find it on my map page: https://www.kunstdame.com/map/
Ischia is a little island two thirds of the way down the west coast of Italy, just off from Naples, or “Napoli“. It’s where I recently spent 5 days lounging in the hot sun and eating good food. I posted a LOT of photos and stories about Ischia! It may be your next vacation hot spot… (literally.)
by Maureen | Aug 11, 2009 | Canals, Journal, Quips
Ahhh. Just back from an hour and a half ride down the canal. I push it as hard as a can, fast and steady. It makes me feel so full of life! I’m grateful to have my two wheels to hop on and get my blood pumping. Ahhh.
And having the canal just a block away is a real treasure. In a short time, I’m out of the city, riding along the corn fields and rice paddies. The rice has gone to seed now. And I thought that surely the farmer planted the outer row of corn for the cyclists. An ear or two each wouldn’t put a dent in his crop. Hesitant to get my mouth set on a fresh ear of corn, I stopped to check it out. Sure enough. Feed corn for cattle. Darn.
The scents along the canal are sure “full and rich”. Sometimes a dead fish or rank cattle farms. Sometimes basil and tomato from the local pea-patch gardens. I catch whiffs of cottonwood and the slow-moving fresh water. Depending on the time of day, my stomach wakes up at the smell of lunch or dinner being prepared. My bike ride is quite sensual.
by Maureen | Aug 10, 2009 | Featured Articles, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia, Photos
La Chiesa della Madonna del Soccorso – The Church of the Madonna of Help is located at the edge of a prominent cliff in Forio, at the west edge of the island of Ischia. I had seen it in the daytime from the window of the bus crowded with tourists, but was in no position to stop and go there.
The other night, however, after our prosciutto, pizza and limoncello, Glenda’s friend Ciro, our host for the evening, took us for a wild drive to Forio. (Only one that knows the roads drives like that! Ischia is NOT a place I’d recommend renting a car while on vacation. Leave those roads to the locals!) I was thrilled when Ciro stopped at the church, all lit up for the evening. I had the luxury of wandering around and shooting for as long as I wished. (Unfortunately, they were all hand-held night shots, so they’re “soft”. Still some fun images.)
One of the government buildings in the town of Forio.
Ciro and Glenda at Chiesa del Soccorso.
by Maureen | Aug 10, 2009 | Featured Articles, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia
Sant’Angelo is a little village on the south side of the island of Ischia. The island bus will drop you off at an upper parking lot and from there you must walk down the hill to the village, or take one of the golf cart taxis. The rabbit-warren-style “roads” are the width of one of these carts plus a person pressed up against the wall as the cart passes. At the shoreline, an isthmus extends out from the center of the village, to a peak of land that once housed a monastery and defense tower. Today, at the base of the hill, one finds restaurants, shops, hotels and apartments. I noticed a rickety wooden platform suspended from the side of the cliff, but have no idea where it leads.
A very enterprising man and his wife set up a juice stand precisely where the bus drops off its passengers. On a hot day, there’s nothing more inviting. You don’t tell the man what you want; he tells you what you should have: a mixed juice of fresh oranges and lemons grown on the island. He slices the fruit, presses it into a glass, adds a dollop of granita iced sugar syrup, adds a spoon so you can stir it up and charges 2 Euro. I drank two, at the beginning and the end of my visit to Sant’Angelo.
Some people enjoyed the beach by catching little pan fish.
This woman kept hiding from me when she saw my camera. She was on a balcony above, justing peering over the edge, then turned to tend the black socks.
Up high and to the east of town was the Casa Rosa, another of the island’s thermal pool spas.
On a knoll above town, only reached by foot or cart, is the Chiesa San Michele. Parishioners were inside at an evening mass.
by Maureen | Aug 10, 2009 | Featured Articles, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia
Castello Aragonese – The Aragonese Castle of Ischia
The castle dominates the skyline and view on the east side of the island of Ischia. Omnipresent as the background, it sits on its own islet, connected to the main island by a 15th century stone bridge. Its history is too complex to try to repeat in this blog post, but here are three links to photo and information sites:
http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/campania/ischia/ischiaponte.html
http://www.castelloaragonese.it/
http://www.castellodischia.it/index_en.html
This tiled sign is in Spanish and makes me wonder about its history.
Inside the dome of the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie.
A remaining portion of a Giottesque fresco from the 14th century, located in the nobles’ crypt beneath the Cathedral. There are olive trees and gardens amongst the castle buildings.
One of the two most bizarre features of the Castello Aragonese is the Nun’s Cemetery, located beneath the church. The bodies of deceased nuns were placed on chairs carved out of the stone that included basins with drain holes. The bodies would slowly decompose and the bodily fluids were gathered in special vases below the drains. “This macabre custom was based on the need to highlight the utter uselessness of the body since it is simply a container for the spirit; refusal of individual burial also underlined the same conviction. Each day the remaining nuns would go to pray and meditate on death and since they passed several hours of the day in such an unhealthy environment, they often contracted serious illnesses, which sometimes proved fatal… The dried skeletons were later heaped in the ossuary.”
“The Convent of Our Lady of Consolation was founded in 1575 and hosted about 40 nuns of the Clarisse Order. Most of the nuns were firstborn daughters from noble families, destined to a cloistered life from childhood in order to leave the family inheritance to the firstborn male. The convent was abolished in 1810.”*
*From the official Castle brochure.
The other disturbing feature of the castle was a small museum of torture devices, presenting both the implements and illustrations explaining their uses. I’m not a squeamish person, but that display made me wince and made me wonder how we humans can do such things to each other. (“Waterboarding” was one of the things presented in the museum of torture. Hmmm.)
There are vast tunnels and passageways throughout the mountain. It must have been quite a bustling fortress.
This view reminded me of the American Southwest and Georgia O’Keeffe’s paintings.
A view from the castle, high above the port of Ischia.
by Maureen | Aug 10, 2009 | Featured Articles, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia
Giardini Poseidon Terme – The Poseidon Gardens and Thermal Pools
Poseidon sits at the western shore of the island of Ischia, just south of the town of Forio. They have over a dozen (I lost track) thermal hot spring-fed pools of varying temperatures. Beautiful gardens, paths, restaurants, a wine bar grotto and sandy, seaside beach.
A day sunbathing at a resort is way beyond my experience! I slathered on the sunscreen and lay idle for as long as I could take it. Then I put on my linen sun dress and shoes, grabbed my camera and walked the paths. I was intrigued by one labeled “panoramic view”, so I followed it… up, and up, and up. Stone steps and dry dust in the afternoon heat. At times enclosed by the trees and shrubs, at other times exposed. I looked down to the gardens and gem-blue pools and was glad for the different viewpoint offered by this path to the top of the mountain.
I hiked up until the stairs ended, the path narrowed into tight brush and I was concerned about getting back by closing time. My dress was soaked from my response to the hot sun and exercise, and I smiled. My kind of resort experience.
http://www.giardiniposeidonterme.com/
by Maureen | Aug 10, 2009 | Featured Articles, Food!, Introspection, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia, Meals
One would think that in a coastal town on an island in the Tyrrhenian Sea it’d be possible to find a good meal of seafood. I was on a mission to satisfy a craving for a plate of mixed, grilled, fresh fish. I found it, and it was perfection.
It was 2:00 p.m. and I was hungry. I strolled the walk along the string of dockside restaurants and read the menus. The dozen restaurants were empty of patrons, and yet of them all, only one had a waiter that came out to the walk to greet me: “O Purticciull”. I told him I was checking out all the menus before I made a decision, then walked on. I walked to the wharf end, and turned around and went back. (The personal touch wins points with me.)
I sat facing the marina, the small local boats, the luxury yachts and the cruise ships. I ordered my mixed, grilled fish and the waiter (I didn’t get his name) suggested a small salad, a “quartino” of white wine and some bottled water. Yes, exactly! I sat on that sunny day with my journal, at ease and breezy. When the waiter arrived with my meal I knew I had selected the right place. Heaven on a plate!
The swordfish, squid and scampi were fresh and grilled perfectly. Delicate, moist, tender. Every bite was savored. Absolutely what I had been looking for!
If you find yourself on the island of Ischia, reserve a meal for O Purticcull, and say thank you to the waiter for me.
http://www.porticciullo.it/index.htm
by Maureen | Aug 9, 2009 | Featured Articles, Food!, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia, Meals
The command came by e-mail from my Italian instructor back home:
“Non dimenticarti di mangiare il famoso ‘coniglio all’ischitana’ accompagnato di un buon vino dell’isola. Ischia e’ famosa anche per il suo vino. Divertiti!”
Translation: “Don’t forget to eat the famous Ischian-style Rabbit, accompanied by a good wine from the island. Ischia is famous also for its wine. Enjoy!”
I did, and I did. The rabbit was fantastic! (I even ate it off of Glenda’s plate since it wasn’t her thing.) Coniglio all’Ischitana showed up as the main offering for dinner at the hotel. Delicious. Just a little spicy. Nice sauce around the meat. (I questioned its being served with french fries and over-cooked baby peas, but hey…) The Rabbit was preceded by prosciutto and melon, then pennoni pasta with rabbit sauce and a fantastic Risotto ai Frutti di Bosco (risotto – rice – cooked with berries and a creamy, cheesy base.) The meal was finished with dessert of a wickedly yummy Napoletano sfolgliatelle pastry. I had only planned to “taste” the dessert, but that plan fell through.
The berries lent a beautiful violet color to the risotto, not a color I usually see on my dinner plate, but very nice with the red-orange.
I was so pleased to see the rabbit listed on the menu! That was one evening I wasn’t going to eat “out”.
Add to this good meal all the other good things I ate while on the Island, such as prosciutto-wrapped fresh figs and melon, followed by the one-and-only, true Napoletano Margherita D.O.C. pizza.
And if only I had a kitchen available, I could bring some of this fresh seafood home and make my own dinner! Displays frequently featured lobster, sea urchins, mussels and countless fish both recognized and unrecognized.
One can also marvel at the pastries displayed temptingly along the main tourist travel route.
OR, drink your dessert and enjoy a little sip of the local Limoncello, much of it homemade. If you’re not one for lemon, there’s Meloncello, Kiwicello and a dozen other variations.
by Maureen | Aug 9, 2009 | Featured Articles, Introspection, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia, Photo of the Day, Photos, Venezia - Venice
9 Agosto – Journal Entry
Sunday night. Back home in Milano. Silence & solitude. Ready to be here and it feels like it’s been ages! I guess that’s the sign of a good vacation. But I tired of the tourist crowds. I tired of the heat and sweat, although I made everything possible out of that trip. I shot some wonderful photos. Had some amazingly full conversations, in Italian. (“Full” for this stage in my ability.) Had some fantastic food. Shared warm smiles with a few people. Actually relaxed in ways I haven’t before (sunbathing at a resort!) And I enjoyed some wide-ranging chats in getting to know Glenda.
I’m glad I went. Glad for the time, energy and expense. Glad to have added to my experience of Italy.
Yesterday, my (our) last day, I wandered alone, had the best meal in two months, and explored the “un-beaten path”. That’s what I learned in Venice last year: get off the main drag. Get away from the rutted route of the tourist hordes! It’s when I simply step off onto a side street, neither advertised nor polished, that I find some sort of interesting gem and a more realistic picture of local life. That feels much more true and full of heart. It’s what I seek out with each new place. I had that yesterday and now feel especially satisfied.
I walked opposite the flow of tourism, away from high-end boutiques, shops selling flip-flops and souvenirs, and subsequent gelato vendors. I strolled the back road, enjoyed a waterside park and its bench alone with my journal. Got almost out to the lighthouse. Took a mere-shoulder-wide, cobbled path up, up, up the hill and found private villas, a tiny church and a calico cat that wouldn’t let me stop petting her. And after coming back down the hill and onto a little water’s-edge stret, I entered a fish market and watched the fishmonger cut 1/2″ slices off a swordfish tail-end that was a least a foot in diameter.
All of that is Ischia!
And, in my solo, side-street wandering, I shot a photo that’s one of my favorites so far! At the Coast Guard office of all places… Gorgeous, salmon-colored walls, a stairway, wrought iron and light from above. Beautiful! That’s the reason to wander away!
by Maureen | Aug 9, 2009 | Introspection, Journal, Quips
9 Agosto 2009 – Sunday. On the Northbound Train
“The Full Italian Experience”
Fellini would do a good job with this. Train ride home to Milano. (Yes, please!) Left Napoli just before 1:00. Arrived in Rome at about 2:00. Japanese passengers 1 seat away just got robbed, on board, of their wallets. (Gypsies got on the train and made a commotion about seat assignments, then took advantage of the disarray they had caused.) Afraid of further loss, the Japanese cable-locked their huge suitcase, IN the aisle-way, to their seat armrest. Spanish travelers just got on the train and couldn’t get past the big suitcase. The conductor came on board and told the theft-victims there was nothing the local authorities could do about the wallets. He asked the Japanese man to stow the suitcase at the end of the rail car. (Right! They just lost everything else. Now stow the bag out of sight and surveillance?) The baby next to me is screaming. Her Napolitana mother remembered her own Coca-cola and sandwich, but forgot the baby’s bottle.
Three hours to go.
(Written while on the train, but no internet connection available, so this is posted from the comfort of my wonderful apartment in Milano. Ahhh. Home!)
by Maureen | Aug 5, 2009 | Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia
The island of Ischia (“EES-kee-uh”) is a 45-minute boat ride off the coast from Napoli. A couple hundred passengers were seated auditorium-style in the boat as it bounced across the water westward. Clearly, several passengers had left their sea-legs behind and were having a hard time of the not-really-so-rough waters.
We arrived at 3:15 with a hot, bright afternoon sun overhead. This was clearly a resort, beach town with bathing suits and pareo-wraps standard costume for the women, and shorts and polos for the men. I’ve never seen so much skin so darkly tanned in one place, and it contrasts so nicely with white linen!
Our balcony view:
Colorful, charming and photogenic, Ischia grooms itself for the tourist. Thermal baths and spa treatments can be followed by a good meal and a stroll through town, perusing gift shops that stay open ‘til midnight. We ate the meal provided at the hotel (which was quite acceptable), then wandered along the waterfront on the large cobblestone walk between fish houses and luxury yachts. We found our way to the main street, where we sampled Limoncello in one shop then the next.
Strolling along the waterfront, restaurants lively with patrons:
As midnight rolled around and we ran out of steam for the day, we backtracked to our starting point, then hopped onto a bus packed tight with tourists. It was just a short ride up the cliffside road to our hotel. We picked up our heavy, brass-fobbed room key at the front desk, then fell into our beds for a good sleep.
A few links:
http://www.onischia.com/
http://www.ischiaonline.it/
http://www.hotellequerce.it/en/default.asp
by Maureen | Aug 5, 2009 | Featured Articles, Journal, L'Isola d'Ischia
4 Agosto 2009
L’Isola d’Ischia, Italia
Today:Milano-Napoli-Ischia, (with stops in Bologna, Firenze and Roma.)
We arrived in Napoli by train from Milano at 2:05. We quickly got out of the crowded station into the fray of people, cabs and hawkers. We selected a cab, asked the price ahead of time and he hustled us toward the boat dock.
Traffic rivaled Xi’an, China! It was equally alarming, hilarious and unruly. By all counts, it should not work, but as in Xi’an, it does. Just give the driver the address, close your eyes and don’t look.
He dropped us right across the walk from the ticket counter. We bought two tickets, walked around the corner and onto the boat. Moments after taking our seats, the boat pulled away from the dock at precisely 2:30. We had managed all that, IN NAPOLI, in the 25 minutes since our train had arrived in town!
There was no time for even a photo to mark our moments in the city. The image in my mind of the castle across from the dock will have to suffice until I have the guts to return and stay a little longer. I would like to return to Napoli for whatever I can deem to be “safe” exploration. But in my short time, I saw a brusqueness in the people and a weariness in the structure of the city. Add that to the tales and warnings I’ve heard and I approach Napoli with caution.
I’m traveling with Glenda, a new friend from Milano, on her August holiday, her “get-outta-dodge” trip away from the city. She invited me to join her, just days after I had arrived from Seattle. I simply said “yes”, with no research or forethought. “Perche no?!” Why not?
I left the apartment at 7:30 this morning. Caught the train at Romolo at about 7:45 and got into Milano Centrale train station at 8:05. Amidst the sea of travelers I found Glenda through a couple of phone calls, and we boarded the “alto velocitá”, high speed train south.
We chatted. Napped. Nibbled on bresaola slices, provolone and seeded bread. The train stopped for passengers on and off at Bologna, Firenze and Roma, then after another hour more we started coming into Napoli.
Napoli is quite different from what I’ve seen of cities in the north. Buildings are in dire need of a paint job, citywide. Streets and sidewalks are strewn with debris. Tent camps have rooted under the overpasses. Visually, Napoli is a mess. But our cabbie expressed great pride in his city, and that’s the heart I’d like to seek out and encounter.
by Maureen | Aug 3, 2009 | Discoveries, Featured Articles, Graphics, Journal, People
It’s August in Milano. It’s hot and humid, and most people are part of the mass-exodus out of the city for the month. (The whole country takes the month off.) But some of us are left behind (or haven’t left yet). What’s the average relaxation passtime on a hot summer day? A day at the beach. But there is no beach in Milano, up to two hours away from the sea, so someone brought the seaside to the city. And the beach was packed.
Dubbed “MysLand” (with a silent “s”, like “island”), the in-city beach was constructed on 10,000 square meters of former fairgrounds, not far from the center of town. The cost was 1.8 million Euro ($2.56 million) to create the semblance of the sea, complete with an imported sandy beach, palm trees, an odd-shaped “ocean” (pool), boardwalk, dressing cabins and café. The real kicker to me, though, was the supergraphic panel that encircled the whole “island”, giving us our view of the wide open ocean with blue skies overhead and occasional puffer-belly clouds.
When we arrived at 10:00 a.m. the place was so empty we thought they were closed. By the time we picked up our towels off the beach chairs at 2:00, there was lying-room-only. Many people sprawled on the astroturf sport court fronted by the big, beachside banner.
The whole concept was a hoot!
Sun-bathing in Italy was a lesson in body-consciousness and body-acceptance. Women of every size and shape sported two-piece bathing suits, no matter how abundantly they overflowed the seams or how sparsely their body parts were covered. And they didn’t seem terribly concerned either way. Men wore enough to cover their privates, some more private than others. I’m afraid my bone-white, sun-starved, Irish-German, Seattleite skin was like a beacon amidst the deep bronze I was surrounded by. Part of my lesson in body-acceptance. My new love of Italian cheese and lack of gym-time also lent opportunities for self-acceptance!
By the way, I spent the day at the beach with Ewa, the one I enjoyed my octopus with two weeks ago after strolling the antique market. After our seaside Sunday, we went home to a delicious lunch of lamb cooked by Piotr, Ewa’s husband. We’ve gotten together several times and will meet up in September after they return from their Milano exodus.
