Maureen | RedRedCircle

Italian Stone: Show of Fine Art Monoprints

by Maureen | Apr 27, 2023 | Blog, Featured Articles, Fine Art, Italy, Journal, Photos

Merging my multiple loves for expression, I have pulled from my 15 years of travel and 60,000 photos in Italy, and combined them with graphic overlays for one-of-a-kind monoprints.

Milan, Florence, Venice… Monuments and cobblestones… Manuscripts and textiles… These are a few of the lush details that I’ve combined in the 27 pieces on display.

The artwork will be available for sale throughout the show, and will also be listed in an online showcase.

View the art HERE.

May 4 – June 30, 2023
Opening Reception:
Friday, May 5 at 6:00 PM
Hosted by:
Burien Arts Association

On view at:
Highline Heritage Museum
819 SW 152nd St.,
Burien WA 98166
Museum Hours:
Thurs. – Sun. 1:00 – 5:00 PM
Free admission to the exhibition.

Signage, Graphics and Street Art Around Milan

by Maureen | Jan 20, 2022 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graffiti & Street Art, Graphics, Italy, Milano

My Designer/Artist’s eye thrills at the strong visuals of signage – old and new – graphic elements and street art that I find in Milan and beyond. Whether polished, “high design”, antique lettering, or fresh-and-funky, it excites my brain and inspires me. I swoon over long-ago, hand-painted typography when I find it. Am stirred by powerful messaging. And am amused by juxtapositions and contrasts. These elements are personal draws that bring me back to Milan.

Window Shopping in Milan

by Maureen | Jan 20, 2022 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

Milan – one of the fashion capitals of the world – has some knock-out, incredible, no-concept-or-cost-barred window displays! Walk along Via Monte Napoleone and Via della Spiga, the posh shopping streets, (especially during the holiday shopping season) and you will see imaginative, over-stated, grand, illuminated window dressings that make it worth the walk just for the show.

Are people dressing like this on the streets? No, they’re not. In the winter months, I see a LOT of fur coats, puffy down jackets and scarves on women and men, both.

Trattoria Villetta Bar

by Maureen | Jan 15, 2022 | Blog, Discoveries, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

When a photo of this little building popped up on the Milano per Sempre Facebook page (Jan. 5, 2022), I thought, “I’ve got to go see that!” The age and “flavor” of the Trattoria Villetta Bar caught my eye.

The next day, I took the Metro out toward the end of the line, at Fermata Inganni, then mistakenly walked a very long loop until I finally arrived at my destination. (Google had misguided my walking direction, but in the process, I saw an area of Milan I had never been to before.)

There were several people at the bar, and we started chatting about the building’s history. Salvatore, a local, and I walked outside to chat. He has lived in the neighborhood for 50 years, and told me about his childhood memories of the surroundings.

In Italy, a “bar” does serve alcohol, but it’s where you go for a “caffè normale” – shot of espresso – as well as a pastry and fresh-squeezed orange juice. It’s often combined with the “Tabacchi” designation, where you can also buy cigarettes, add to your cell phone minutes, or get transit tickets.

Read, below, the original post from Milano per Sempre’s Facebook page,
in Italian, and Google-translated into English.

Questa caratteristica e graziosa casetta adibita a trattoria/tabaccheria è un retaggio di ciò che riconduce a Cascina Creta (“La Crea” in dialetto),un antico casale le cui tracce compiano con certezza sulle Carte del Fieno del Claricio dal 1659, e che prese il nome stesso dall’argilla che si estraeva presso le cave delle campagne circostanti.

Il complesso rurale era circondato dalle acque del fontanile Marcione che irrorandone i campi utilizzati per le coltivazioni,permetteva alle varie aree di essere raggiunte solo tramite dei ponticelli,donando alla cascina un aspetto associabile ad una rocca fortificata.

Sul finire degli anni ’30,la cascina venne spostata in una struttura più moderna, denominata poi “Creta Nuova”.

Pressappoco ad inizio del Novecento risale anche questo piccolo edificio assomigliante ad una baita di montagna,eretta su quella che era la strada per Baggio,ora Via Forze Armate 163.

Il suo impiego principale ero quello di stallo per le carrozze ed i cavalli che dovevano raggiungere le fattorie situate nella zona. Provvista di due campi da bocce,oltre che un luogo di ristoro offriva anche uno svago per gli avventori.

Negli anni successivi cadde in disuso e dagli orti limitrofi,si passò ad un lento degrado della zona circostante,in cui si trovava anche un rottamaio (“rottamat” in dialetto milanese).

Ora rimane questa immagine architettonica tra le più iconiche, nonché da salvaguardare nel bel mezzo delle case popolari, per gli amanti della vecchia Milano e di ciò che riguarda la sua storia.

This characteristic and charming little house used as a trattoria / tobacconist is a legacy of what leads back to Cascina Creta (“La Crea” in dialect), an ancient farmhouse whose traces have been traced with certainty on the Claricio’s Hay Cards since 1659, and which the name itself from the clay that was extracted in the quarries of the surrounding countryside.

The rural complex was surrounded by the waters of the Marcione fountain which, by spraying the fields used for cultivation, allowed the various areas to be reached only by means of bridges, giving the farmhouse an aspect that can be associated with a fortified fortress.

At the end of the 1930s, the farmhouse was moved to a more modern structure, later called “Creta Nuova”.

This small building resembling a mountain hut also dates back to about the beginning of the twentieth century, built on what was the road to Baggio, now Via Forze Armate 163.

Its main use was as a stall for carriages and horses that had to reach the farms located in the area. Equipped with two bowling green, as well as a place for refreshment it also offered entertainment for the patrons.

In the following years it fell into disuse and from the neighboring gardens, there was a slow deterioration of the surrounding area, where there was also a scrap dealer (“rottamat” in Milanese dialect).

Now this architectural image remains among the most iconic, as well as to be safeguarded in the midst of public houses, for lovers of old Milan and what concerns its history.

@nebulosa_simonastucchi

After antiques, eating for hours on a hilltop in Ozzano

by Maureen | Jan 12, 2022 | Blog, Casale, Featured Articles, Food!, Italy, Meals, Monferrato, Ozzano

Still dark, we headed out early to the flea market at Assago. One can find “good stuff”, plus a lot of junk, by flashlight. From there we headed on the country roads southwest to Casale Monferrato for their flea market/antique market, with “higher end” good stuff and junk. By the time we got to Casale, it was sunny and a little warmer, so we could peel off a couple of our winter layers.

The booth that captured my attention was full of old metal: tools, measuring devices, instruments, kitchen implements, and some wood, as well. It was hard to tear myself away from the seller’s several laden tables. A few things came away with me as “pensieri”, mementos.

Early morning flea market entry

Chiavarine chairs, delicate in appearance

Snow-dusted country field

Frosty country field

Cemetery out in a country field

You, too, could buy this place for just 1€. Ha ha ha

Art Nouveau “Liberty” market entrance in Casale

Junk and treasures

Dante Alighieri Books, 1865

Dante Alighieri, 1865

Dante Alighieri Books, 1865

Ahhh, the fresh cheeses!

Fur stoles, ruffs, hats, plus not-fur

Fur coats for 100€ each

Old tools, instruments, measuring devices

Nut and crab crackers. So sculptural!

We had 1:00 reservations for our Sunday meal in nearby Ozzano Monferrato. That was the simple part. FINDING the place required Loredano to stop four times to ask for directions. (Imagine if a non-Italian-speaker had tried to find their way?!)

We finally arrived a little after 1:00 at Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia, high on a hill, just south of Ozzano, even further south of Casale. Beautiful views along the way, and once we got there.

There is no menu here. You specify your water (sparkling or still) and your wine (from their own production), and then they begin serving you… and serving you…and serving you, until the point when you ask, “How many more plates are you bringing?!” because you’re already to the point of bursting.

Salume
Pancetta
Soppressata
Lardo
Carne Crudo/Tartare
Verdura Cardo con crema di parmigiano
Risotto con noci (with walnuts)
Tagliolini con carne (with meat)
Faraona con Patate (Guinea Fowl with Potatoes)
Brasato (Pot Roast)
Bonet Piemontese (traditional Piedmont chocolate bread pudding)
Vino (Both Barbera and Bianco, their own production)
Acqua Frizzante (sparkling)
Caffè
Grappa

The total for two people, for all of the above, was 68€, ($77)!! We suggested they have not just the rate for the meal, but a rate for the meal-plus-a-room to sleep for 3 hours afterwards.

This would be an amazing place to bring a group of friends for a stay and a meal.

Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia
Deregibus Mario di Pietro & Mauro Deregibus
Ozzano Monferrato (AL)
Tel: 0142.488.279
By reservation only

View to Treville from Ozzana hill

View toward Casale from Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Inside Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Salume, pancetta, soppressata

Enjoying my slices of lard and soppressata

Lardo – Unusually meaty pieces of lard

Loredano and an unusually meaty piece of lardo – lard

Il vino rosso

Carne cruda – Steak tartare (chopped, raw beef)

Cardo – Wild artichoke in creamy parmigiano sauce

Risotto con noci – Risotto with walnuts

Il vino bianco

Tagliolini con carne

Brasato – Pot roast

Bonet Piemontese – like a steamed, chocolate bread pudding

Caffè e grappa

Maureen at Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

View toward Casale from Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

View toward Casale from Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Imarisia chicken coop

Eighteenth Century Fashion at Palazzo Morando

by Maureen | Jan 11, 2022 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

In one of the fashion capitals of the world, what better sight is there to see than a show of eighteenth century clothing, and modern-day clothing it inspired. The show at Palazzo Morando is titled “Sette Cento” – literally “seven hundred”, but referring to the 1700s, thus the eighteenth century. (This is a common way of referring to the centuries, dropping reference to the first thousand years. I hear this often when speaking of antiques.)

Several of the garments had construction details that wowed me: a modified princess seam, adjustable back waist belt, detachable collar, pre-angled sleeves, uncommon gathers, over-embroidered prints. (The blue-on-white Vivienne Westwood Jacket from 1996 was particularly intriguing to me.) Seeing both the old and the new, the textiles, the details, the forms, made me itch to get in front of my sewing machine.

Mineral Collection at the Museum of Natural History of Milan

by Maureen | Jan 5, 2022 | Blog, Discoveries, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Milano

What an incredible, jaw-dropping collection of mineral specimens from around the world! Such size, color, geometry, variety, complexity/simplicity. Wow.

In all these years of coming to Milano, I had never been to the Museo di Storia Naturale di Milano – The Natural History Museum of Milan – though I had passed it many times. Due to Covid precautions, I’m not traveling beyond Milan much this time, so I’m doing more exploration right here in town.

I looked up the museum online and saw that they have the mineral collection, so I went specifically to see it. (I’ll save the rest of the museum for another visit.)

When I first entered the collection space, I faced handwritten ledgers documenting the collection, plus illustrations and beautiful instruments. Then I walked into the grand hall and marveled at the stones in front of me.

I found Opal, Quartz, Flourite, Beryl, Topaz, Gold, Silver and Copper. The Zolfo – Sulfur – is brilliant yellow, and the specimens are huge, wonderfully-formed crystals. Schorl-Elbaite is Tourmaline. Impressive!

The museum visit was a great way to spend one of the few rainy afternoons we’ve had in the last few weeks.

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Museum of Natural History of Milan

Stresa, along the shore of Lago Maggiore

by Maureen | Jan 4, 2022 | Blog, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Lago Maggiore, Meals

What an invitation, to spend the day with Antonio, Donatella and Loredano at Lago Maggiore, in “the Lakes Region”, northwest of Milan!

Once beyond the autostrada, and partway along the lakeshore, we stopped in Arona at the Statua di San Carlo Borromeo – the Statue of Saint Charles Borromeo – a towering figure by sculptor Auguste Bartholdi, who designed the Statue of Liberty. Although there is access up inside of the statue, it was closed during our visit. One of the local cats, however, was quite content for our attention and was a sweet highpoint.

After finishing our hour-and-a-half-long drive, winding along the western shore of the lake, we arrived at Stresa (STRAY-zuh). From Stresa, one looks north into Switzerland at the head of the lake. We sipped prosecco in the main piazza before catching the wood-lined transport boat to the small island of Isola Pescatore.

Wandering rabbit-warren, pebbled paths so satisfies my desire for exploration! We walked until we found the entrance to a restaurant serving the local specialty of deep fried fish: Aquadelle, “red trout” and “white trout”. I dipped each bite, head-tail-and-all, into the aioli provided and ate the fish along with the grilled veggies I also requested. Always order the local specialty!

It was a beautiful, partly sunny, not-cold winter day, and we enjoyed a shoreline stroll after lunch as we awaited the boat to take us to the next island, Isola Bella. We had our wanderings here as well, though the island was mostly shuttered for the season.

We caught the boat back to Stresa as the sky was darkening, and returned to town with the holiday lights ablaze. A wonderful day away from the city with dear friends.

(Click on the map below for a better view.)

La Statua di San Carlo – Statue of St. Charles

Maureen with Tango’s Cousin

Piazzale del Monte San Carlo

Antonio checking email in the main piazza of Stresa

Donatella and Antonio wearing their new masks

Donatella and Antonio

Loredano on the piazza in Stresa

Signage in the main piazza of Stresa

Along the shore of Lago Maggiore

Tickets to the islands on Lago Maggiore

Isola Bella

Isola Pescatore

On Isola Pescatore

On Isola Pescatore (Note the Santa Claus)

On Isola Pescatore: “Alms for the needs of the church”

On Isola Pescatore: same church

On Isola Pescatore

On Isola Pescatore: Deep fried “red trout”, “white trout” and aquadelle fish from the lake. (Always choose what’s local.)

On Isola Pescatore: Panna cotta with raspberry sauce and shortbread

On Isola Pescatore

Lago Maggiore, with Switzerland at the north end

Isola Bella

Pebbled piazza on Isola Bella

Painted details on Isola Bella

On Isola Bella

Isola Bella

On Isola Bella, looking north to Isola Pescatore

Chain and pebbled pavement on Isola Bella

On Isola Bella

Stresa Ticket office for Lago Maggiore boat trips

Cat-like New Year’s Eve Sunny Day

by Maureen | Dec 31, 2021 | Apartment, Blog, Featured Articles, Introspection, Italy, Journal, Milano

“Che splendido!” How splendid!

New Year’s Eve. 1:14 on a sunny afternoon. My tall doors open to the cool, 43-degree air, sun and the canal view streaming in. How delightful to sit here, cat-like, enjoying this bright winter day.

I crave light and this south-facing balcony satisfies my yearning. Doors wide open, I’ll warm the house back up later.

The bubbling chicken stock has made the house smell good, though I now realize I’m flushing all the scent out with this fresh air. A fine trade.

This moment is a perfection and I made the choices to create it. I recognize my good fortune to be able to do so.

I could sit here all afternoon just feeling the sun transit the sky!

I like to eat in Italy.

by Maureen | Jan 12, 2022 | Blog, Cheese, Featured Articles, Food!, Italy, Meals

Oh, how I love to eat here in Italy. What is it that makes it all so delicious? Unlike the misconceptions, “Italian food” is NOT all “pizza and pasta”. There’s so very much more!

The freshness of the ingredients is a big part. Also, the regional traditions and specialties, changing every 50 kilometers, makes exploration so tantalizing.

And, my trust in the food origin and quality makes a huge difference (…but perhaps I’m naive and mistaken?). I can’t remember the last time I’ve eaten raw beef in the U.S. I wouldn’t trust it! But it was absolutely delicious yesterday, and I had no hesitation. The provenance of the meat is important and known here. I don’t find that in the U.S. except in very refined restaurants or meat sources.

Part of my reason for posting images of what I’m eating is to inform about the very broad world of what constitutes “Italian Food”. If you come to Italy, I encourage you to order the regional specialties… order something even though you don’t know what it is. It’s a great, wonderful, edible world here.

After you’ve devoured the images below, here are a few additional food smorgasbords to drool over:

Italian Food: Hungry? Eat this!

Italian Food: Eating the South

Pizza con nduja, provolone, cipolla caramellata e pistacchi

Ravioli stuffed with squash, topped with just-shaved white truffle

Aperitivo platter at Bugandè

Salame, coppa, speck

Warm “salad” of octopus, potato and taggiasche olives. My favorite

Squash pudding with porcini sauce

Mozzarella knot “nodino”. Yes, it can be untied.

Swordfish “spada”

Baked orata with bottarga (dried roe)

Prawns and artichoke

Sardegnan pastries

Lightly sweetened lemon ricotta

Saltimbocca con patate

Macchiato at Cioccolat Italiani

Panna Cotta

Tagliolini con Ragu

Salad of thin-sliced, grilled octopus, with avocado, corn, cherry tomatoes, basil and lime

crostini topped with warm goat cheese, shaved beet and sun-dried tomato

Homemade chicken soup, with bok choy

On Isola Pescatore: Deep fried “red trout”, “white trout” and aquadelle fish from the lake. (Always choose what’s local.)

On Isola Pescatore: Panna cotta with raspberry sauce and shortbread

Arancini, filled with speck and pistacchio

Arancini, deep-fried rice balls filled with meats, cheese, sauce

Chicken Mirabella for New Year’s Eve dinner

Chicken Mirabella prepped for New Year’s Eve dinner

Tortelli filled with squash, with black truffle

Papardelle with fresh porcini mushrooms

Il tris di Carne Cruda di Garronese

Marinated eggplant

Pisarei e Fasò

Il Ganassino

Un Caffè Normale

Argentine beef, with cod “in umido”

Pickled onions and “chiodo” mushrooms

Un caffè normale

Tortelli di zucca (squash) with butter and sage

Mirto and Sardegnan pastry

Smoked tuna

Pane carasau, octopus and potato, smoked tuna, scallop

“Alici”, fresh anchovies with lemon juice and EVOO

Shrimp, tomatoes, pane carasau

Mussels

Mirto, Sardegnan liquore of myrtle leaves and berries

Gnocchi with black truffle

Cauliflower. Foamy, and neither soup

Bread platter at Al Pont de Ferr

Linguine with teeny, tiny “seppiolini”, little squid

My Christmas breakfast of sautéed veggies, egg, cheese, pears, taralli

A great big salad

Biscotti

Roasted artichokes

Shrimp and squid skewers

Salame, pate and egg-crab bites

Donna Fugata Anthilia

Pear cognac

Bread with zabaglione spread

Macedonia da Rizzotti

Filet with roasted brussels sprouts

Tajarin al ragu with quail and black truffle

Gorgonzola dolce with walnuts

Burrata

Octopus tentacle with garbanzo puree

Escarole with pine nuts and raisins

Grilled scamorza affumicata cheese with zucchini

Eggplant parmigiana to-go

Risotto con Tartufo Bianco

Orecchiette, cima di rapa, burrata

Caponata – Eggplant, olives, capers

How does one use a bidet?

by Maureen | Dec 27, 2021 | Apartment, Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

“How does one use a bidet? Is it for washing your feet? Is it for chilling your prosecco?”… Many American friends have been puzzled about using a bidet, and have asked for an explanation.

With a bidet, one can use far less water than with a shower. Naked, plop your butt down on the bidet and wash your pits, your privates and your pretty little face. Poof! All freshened up!

I really like having a bidet, standard in homes here in Italy. A few years ago I got bids to remodel my one-and-only bathroom in my 70-year-old house. I would have to redo much of my plumbing, including moving the toilet. I’ve put it off… for now. (And no, I don’t want a computerized, body-sensing add-on to my toilet.)

As we face water shortages, I think all new houses should include bidets, AND we’d have to educate people about their use. (Retrofitting a house is complex, but new construction could start with a bidet in the plan.)

Foggy Day After Christmas in Milan

by Maureen | Dec 27, 2021 | Blog, Featured Articles, Food!, Italy, Meals, Milano, Piacenza, Shopping & Markets

Early Sunday mornings, (not bright-and-early because it’s pitch dark out at 6:00 a.m.) are flea market times. Loredano has been a “regular” for decades, and I’ve got the bug when I’m here. Yesterday, the day after Christmas, we headed to the flea market at Assago, on the southwest edge of Milan. The sellers’ stalls were sparse, post-holiday, but we found a few things nonetheless. I got an old, leather-bound, very heavy, blank ledger (€20) which may yield fodder for art projects. That book is so big and heavy, it’ll require a suitcase all on its own! And I brought home a beautiful boxed set of handmade paper stationery, labeled “London” (€5), each bundle of envelopes tied with a white silk ribbon. I will use these papers for special letters, and maybe even do some painting on that gorgeous paper.

From Assago, we tried for San Donato, this time on the southeast edge of town. Also slim pickin’s at that flea market, we browsed, and walked away empty-handed. Up for a drive, we decided to head east, to Caorso, in the Province of Piacenza, Region of Emilia-Romagna. (Like driving to the next state over.) Caorso is almost halfway between Milan and Bologna, not far from Parma. It was a foggy drive in the countryside, with farmlands and abandoned buildings from long ago in the muted, roadside scenes… plus a giant Amazon warehouse.

We arrived in the little town of Caorso, stopped to ask a couple of locals where the flea market was, and they told us that because it was the feast day of Santo Stefano, there was no flea market. Hmm. Now what? In the historic center of town, we stopped across from the Piazza della Rocca Mandelli , a renaissance castle; the theater that caught my eye, Cine Fox; and Casa La Madonnina, an elder care residence.

It was almost noon, a little early by Italian standards to stop for lunch. We saw a man walking along the street, stopped and told him we’d like to find a restaurant serving foods typical to the region. Where would he recommend having a meal?

Absolutely the best choice, he said, was Osteria del Morino. (@osteriadelmorinocaorso) He was right. A half block away, we called to check availability. Yes! There was space for two. (By the time we left two hours later, the place was packed. Amazing that we had gotten a table.) (Of course, named “Morino”, how could we go wrong?)

From the outside, the place looked small and worth little mention. But inside, we found the place expansive, charming, and comfortably-yet-beautifully decorated. We were seated in the upstairs balcony.

Always choose from the local specialties. In Italy, you can go 50 kilometres and find a completely different food culture, each area with it’s own traditional recipes. Ask for those! (Please don’t fall back on what you “think” is “Italian Food”, what you’re accustomed to ordering back home in the States. I often don’t know what I’m going to get… but that’s the whole point!)

Loredano and I chose, and shared:

Il tris di Carne Cruda di Garronese – Three different raw preparations of very special, high quality Garronese beef.
Pisarei e Fasò – “Pasta and beans”. Borlotti beans with bean-sized rounds of firm pasta, in a smooth, tomato-based sauce.
Melanzane marinate – Marinated Eggplant – Pickled in wine vinegar with olive oil and herbs.
Il Ganassino – Pig’s cheeks, stewed in Barbera wine, served on mashed potatoes.
Vino Gutturnio – A lightly bubbly red wine, typical of Piacenza Province.
Un Caffè Normale – Every meal is finished with a sip of coffee.

Heavy, old ledger

Old ledger pages

Beautiful, handmade writing papers

The “laid” finish of the handmade writing papers

Caorso in Piacenza

Piacenza

Amazon in Piacenza

Rocca Mandelli

Cine Fox

Casa Residenza Anziani La Madonnina

Osteria del Morino exterior

Osteria del Morino

Il tris di Carne Cruda di Garronese

Marinated eggplant

Pisarei e Fasò

Il Ganassino

Gutturnio

Un Caffè Normale

Osteria del Morino antipasti

Osteria del Morino primi

Osteria del Morino secondi

Osteria del Morino

Triennale – Mestiere di Grafico Oggi

by Maureen | Dec 23, 2021 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graphics, Italy, Milano

Mestiere di Grafico Oggi – Professions in Graphics Today: Always energising, thought-provoking and inspiring to see a round-up of what’s happening in the design world. So many expressions of design that weren’t feasible when I began 45 years ago… and so many that remain still.

It tickled me to see my friend Alta Price featured in the show, with the book Alfa-Beta, she created with Enrico Tallone and Tomaso Tojani.

I was also pleased to recognise acknowledgement of the 25 year anniversary of the Tipoteca Italiana Fondazione, where, a few years ago, I was fortunate to learn and practice with masters in their letterpress studio.

Triennale – Roberto Capucci

by Maureen | Dec 23, 2021 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

Roberto Capucci: Italian fashion designer. “He creates unusual, sculpted dresses in original materials and has been featured in shows representing most talented and renowned designers.” Wikipedia

I enjoy the playful innovation, sculptural forms and elegant craft.

Triennale – Ettore Sottsass

by Maureen | Dec 23, 2021 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graphics, Italy, Milano

Ettore Sottsass: A design great, so always an honour to see his sketches, his thinking, the fruition of his ideas.

“(14 September 1917 – 31 December 2007) was an Italian architect and designer during the 20th century. His body of work included furniture, jewelry, glass, lighting, home objects and office machine design, as well as many buildings and interiors. His style was defined by bright color choices, statement pieces and decoration. Ettore Sottsass was an iconic figure in design history.” Wikipedia.

INSTALLATION
Ettore Sottsass – Casa Lana

Triennale Design Museum, Milano

Triennale – Raymond Depardon

by Maureen | Dec 23, 2021 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano, Photos

Raymond Depardon: A grand exhibition space filled with images of even grander, great outdoor spaces. Printed tall and soaring, taking the viewer directly into the broad expanse of landscape.

Then come around a corner, and there are intimate captures of bustle on the streets of New York. Real, fresh, unhidden faces and sidewalk interactions.

Around yet another bend in the show is an affectionate embrace of quintessential places, their signs, their exteriors, their “faces” to the world.

One could get lost in exploring the rich meat of this exhibition.

EXHIBITION
Raymond Depardon – La Vita Moderna

Until 10 April 2022

Triennale – Giovanni Gastel

by Maureen | Dec 23, 2021 | Blog, Design, Graphics, Italy, Milano

Giovanni Gastel: Powerful, dramatic, moody photos, made all the more striking by the very large size of these digital prints.

Interesting that most of those photographed are Italian, yet the show is opened with a portrait of Barack Obama.

And there’s disparity in the portrayal of the men and women. (Are we surprised?) There’s a broader age range in the men shown, and they are presented as serious, introspective and enigmatic. There’s not much variation in the presentation of the women, their age, their mood, their strengths. Their beauty is highlighted. Where are the elder women?

Strong portraits. Moving. But they leave me questioning.

EXHIBITION
Giovanni Gastel – The People I Like

Until 13 March 2022

Triennale – Saul Steinberg

by Maureen | Dec 23, 2021 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graphics, Italy, Milano

Saul Steinberg: Masterful. Genius. Witty. Broadly talented. And there must be hundreds of his works in this show!

EXHIBITION
Saul Steinberg Milano New York

Triennale Design Museum, Milano
Until 13 March 2022

The exhibition, curated by Italo Lupi and Marco Belpoliti with Francesca Pellicciari, and put on together with the Electa publishing company, celebrates the city of Milan, where Steinberg lived and to which he dedicated many of his works. The display includes a series of pencil, ink and watercolour drawings, paper masks, objects, and sculptures, as well as documents and photographs, selected with the assistance of the Saul Steinberg Foundation and other important institutions, as well as Steinberg’s friends and collectors.

Triennale Design Museum of Milano

by Maureen | Dec 23, 2021 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graphics, Italy, Milano

The current selection of shows at the Triennale Design Museum is reason enough to come to Milano right now! Knocked my socks off! Inspiration. Ideas. Things to contemplate and marvel over. Wow factor. During every visit to this city, a pilgrimage to the Triennale is an absolute must for me, and always a high point.

In addition to the permanent exhibit of Italian product design (incredible!), there are always multiple, relevant, rotating shows. There’s also the best design bookstore I’ve ever seen, and a Caffè for when you need to refuel in order to keep perusing the shows.

Current Highlight Shows:

Saul Steinberg – Milano, New York, until 13 March 2022
Ettore Sottsass – Casa Lana, Permanent Installation
Il Mestiere di Grafico Oggi – Graphic Professions Today
Giovanni Gastel – The People I Like, until 13 March 2022
Raymond Depardon – Modern Life, until 10 April 2022
Roberto Capucci – Marvels of Form
Museo del Design Italiano – Museum of Italian Design, Permanent Exhibit

Triennale Milano
Viale Alemagna 6, 20121 – Milano
T +39 02 72434245

Foggy, Junky, Winter Day in Milan

by Maureen | Dec 19, 2021 | Blog, Christmas & New Year's Eve, Featured Articles, Food!, Milano

Assago Flea Market

It was 32 degrees outside this morning at 6:00 and we were going scrounging for junk. I put on two pairs of pants, two sweaters, a down jacket and wool coat, two hats and gloves. Bundled. As ready as I could be. My long-time friend, painter Loredano, picked me up and we drove south into the thick fog to the crude, rough, full-of-junk-with-occasional-hidden-pearls flea market.

We arrived at 6:15 in dense fog. Sellers got there even earlier. The “sharks” – voracious buyers – perused with flashlights and headlights as merchandise was pulled from vans and trucks. There’s a lot of JUNK out there and I wonder why people bother carting it around, arranging it on the pavement or tables … and now and then, there’s a “gem”. But it’s all relative. I think of a quote from grocer Morris Manischewitz who said, 40 years ago, “People buy anything.” It’s true. They do.

If I see something that interests me, I motion to Loredano, who knows all the sellers and has been buying “antiques” for decades. He negotiates the price as one of “the regulars”.

In the U.S., if something is 50 years old, we call it an antique. Here, the antiques are 200, 300, 400+ years old. THOSE are antiques. We don’t even see such things at “antique stores” in the U.S.

As the fog lifted, the overhead lights cast a golden glow, and slowly we could begin to see without flashlights and cell phone lights. We bought a couple of old books, stayed for 2 hours, then headed back to the center of town.

Milan Mercatone Antiquariato Along the Naviglio Grande

The BIG antique market in Milan, along the Naviglio Grande (Grand Canal), is always scheduled for the last Sunday of the month. In the summertime, there’s barely standing-room-only, and the sellers’ stalls stretch out in all directions. But Christmas is next weekend, so the market was a week early. On a frigid, foggy, winter day, the stalls and buyers had room to spare, but there was still plenty to look at.

Prices are much higher than at the little flea markets scattered in small towns near Milan. Sellers know the market draws tourists, and they allegedly offer a more curated selection of goods. If nothing else, it’s fun to look.

Back in Milan, the fog had lifted, the sun was shining, and it was a 40 degree, pleasant winter day. Ahh. I bought a piece of twill-weave, “canapa” (hemp) fabric from which I want to make a couple of bath towels. It’s heavy and dense and SO absorbent!

Sunday Afternoon Lunch in the Countryside

After I had a brief nap (still catching up from jet lag), Loredano and I headed south. As we got away from buildings and solid pavement, the fog enveloped us. It was white-grey everywhere. Some of the trees at the roadside were thick with hoarfrost, and snow from last week remained in the fields.

We took so many back roads, roundabouts, turns and farm-field paths that I could never give directions to Ristorante Mulino di Limido in Zerboló. You have to know it’s there, and how to find it. We warmed ourselves by the big fireplace when we got there.

We ordered appetisers to start, and received cipolle sott’aceto (pickled onions, yum!), funghi chiodi (little mushrooms), insalata Russa (Russian Salad) and a meat plate of salame, coppa and speck. (I could have stopped there!)

There was no written menu, and though I speak only Italian when I’m here, it just doesn’t work for me to have a server rattle off the offerings for the day and expect me to pick one. Admittedly, I was flustered. (I’m such a visual person that I need to read the name and description, visualise the dish and THEN decide what I want.) The server was too impatient for me to do my visualisation. I ended up with a hunk of Argentinian beef sitting all by itself on a plain white plate. Loredano ordered merluzzo in umido, cod, kind of simmered with potatoes. We shared our dishes.

We ended our meal with Tiramisù (I had one bite), limoncello and un caffè. We then made our way northward, in the fog, to the city where the sunny sky opened up.

Back to the Mercatone

We went back to the canal, where the Mercatone was in full swing in the light of day, We wandered a bit, saw long-time friends, then split up for the day.

Fog and sunshine. City and country. Junk and treasure. Friends and strangers. Lovely, lovely.

Salame, coppa, speck

Pickled onions and “chiodo” mushrooms

Argentine beef, with cod “in umido”

Un caffè normale

IMG_7053-v2

Vintage Eyeglasses at Foto Veneta Ottica

by Maureen | Dec 18, 2021 | Blog, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

If you want fun, distinctive, vintage – or modern – eyewear, and you’re strolling the streets of Milano, head up the stairs to Foto Veneta Ottica. You might spend hours browsing!

I had been there a few years ago, and the other day I spontaneously decided to stop in for a peek. Hooked on red glasses, I asked to see what they have. They pulled out a tray full of red-wear, but what caught my eye was a pair off to the side, in another case.

Bingo! This pair, from the 70s, by Italian designer Mila Schön, is certainly “fun, distinctive and vintage”, and a bit outrageous. They put new lenses in them for me and I picked them up the next day. Fabulous. There won’t be anything like them on the streets of Seattle!

FOTO VENETA OTTICA
Via Torino 57, 20123 Milano
Tel 02.8055735

https://fotovenetaottica.com
info@fotovenetaottica.com

Christmas Market in Milan

by Maureen | Dec 18, 2021 | Christmas & New Year's Eve, Featured Articles, Milano, Shopping & Markets

Stretched out along the north side of Milan’s Duomo, Christmas Market stalls are selling meats, cheeses, breads, pretzels, truffles, dried fruit, candies, chocolate… Also every variety of gift item, including little trinkets, clothing, ornaments, jewelry, etc.

Approaching the Christmas Market stalls.

Dried and candied fruits of all sorts.

Chestnuts roasting on a closed fire.

Meats and cheeses from Norcia.

All sorts of nougat!

Olives, pickled artichoke hearts and veggies from Puglia.

Milano 2021 Mid-Pandemic

by Maureen | Dec 15, 2021 | Apartment, Blog, Canals, Christmas & New Year's Eve, Church, Featured Articles, Food!, Incredible Locations, Italy, Milano, Photos

13 December 2021
“Stanca morta” – Dead tired.

Just arrived this morning after complex travel prep due to Covid-19, two days of almost no sleep, and 24 hours of travel. Door-to-door.

But so content as I sit here in my canal-side appartamento, hearing the apperitivo hub-bub along the Naviglio Grande (Grand Canal) through the double-pane windows. The Christmas light decorations illuminate my apartment.

I’m on the third floor, as Americans would call it. “Secondo Piano” as Italians would say. What we call the first floor is the “terra piano“, the ground floor. The “first floor” is the floor up from that.

“Ho messo tutto a posto. Tutto in ordine. Sistemato. Organizzato.” I put everything just right. Everything in order. Systematized. Organized.

A great flat with a quite ample kitchen, dining table (desk), living room, and non-scary stairs that go up to the loft bedroom and bathroom. (Going up the stairs during the day to use the bathroom is better than having to navigate the stairs down…and back up…in the dark middle of the night.)

I’m on the north side of the canal, so I will get morning and daylight sun streaming in from the canal-side, tall, balcony doors. That thrills me.

And I’m in my traditional neighborhood: “Zona Navigli“. The Canal Zone. I’ve always been in this area and it feels like home. Only a couple of times smack ON the canal, but this has become my default spot. I have friends, favorite restaurants, grocery stores, little shops that I frequent.

Two years have passed since I was last here. It feels like ages, but also like no time at all. Feels like almost yesterday as I move through town to get “home” to my apartment.

But also, the world has changed. Milano has changed. I’ve changed. Italy… and the whole world, bore horrible onslaught from the Covid pandemic… and we still bear it, and likely will for who knows how long.

Italy has “strict regulations” in place, not wanting to endure the loss they bore when the pandemic began. But I do see caution being set aside more than I imagined. So I have to navigate and create my own personal safety as I am comfortable.

I am so glad to be here. This place…Milano…Italia…has been feeding my heart, my brain, my soul, since 2008, every year adding to the bank of inspiration, reference and memory.

I just couldn’t imagine staying away another year. My time here feeds me. Feeds my being.

My Apartment Along the Grand Canal

My “block” along the canal

My apartment along the canal, with it’s bedroom dormer

Entering my apartment, into the kitchen

My living room with high doors that open to a balcony with the canal view

My loft bedroom

My bathroom, with a big shower

Classic “ringhiera” courtyard, outside my apartment

The stairway up to my apartment

My Neighborhood in the “Zona Navigli”, Canal Zone

The view from my balcony, looking out along the “Naviglio Grande”, the Grand Canal.

Looking west along the canal, past my apartment

Auguri and Vativision

“Auguri”. Best Wishes

Piazza 24 Maggio

San Gottardo

Market stalls at La Darsena.

Looking south down the Naviglio Pavese.

I know how to eat!

Linguine with teeny, tiny “seppiolini”, little squid

Bread platter at Al Pont de Ferr

Cauliflower. Foamy, and neither soup

Gnocchi with black truffle

Warm “salad” of octopus, potato and taggiasche olives. My favorite

Mussels

Shrimp, tomatoes, pane carasau

“Alici”, fresh anchovies with lemon juice and EVOO

Smoked tuna

Pane carasau, octopus and potato, smoked tuna, scallop

Mirto and Sardegnan pastry

Tortelli di zucca (squash) with butter and sage

Around town in the evening.

Porta Venezia.

Porta Venezia illuminata

Milano Romana.

Milano Romana Sign.

A dramatic figure

Christmas street decorations

San Lorenzo Maggiore and columns

Modern Contrast.

Meet the Men Who Pick Your Fruit

by Maureen | Jan 4, 2021 | Blog, Featured Articles, Introspection, Journal, U.S.A.

We do our shopping and choose fruits and veggies to bring home without giving much thought to those who picked that produce.

Long ago, for 21 years, I had been an orchardist in the Methow Valley of Eastern Washington with my then-husband. This was no “gentleman farmer” hobby endeavor. Though we weren’t one of the larger orchardists, at the time we grew about 450,000 pounds of pears per year, plus about 50,000 pounds of apples.

Speaking Spanish

My love of language came in handy. I had studied Spanish for 7 years in school and lived in Nicaragua as an exchange student when I was 14. I was the only orchardist in the Valley that spoke Spanish. Consequently, we often had carloads of eager workers that would drive up our dusty road for my help filling out their immigration and working papers.

In 1999, at harvest time, I wanted to introduce the individuals that showed up early every day to pick d’Anjou pears, starting on those frosty September mornings, and ending with sweltering afternoons. Each day their hands became caked with chemical residues, sticky insect “honeydew”, aluminum from the ladders, dirt and sweat.

Each full bag of pears hanging from their shoulders weighed 40 pounds, the thick straps criss-crossing their backs. Many of the men bore telltale X-shaped open wounds and scars. It’s damn heavy, hard work, climbing up and down a 10 or 12-foot ladder with a 40-pound weight strapped on front, then leaning over to carefully unload the fruit into the bin. Some men would pick 8,000 to 10,000 pounds a day! For each thousand-pound bin, they earned 8 to 12 bucks depending on the orchardist’s generosity.

Crew Boss and Camaraderie

Some years, I ran harvest while my husband was back in Burien, south of Seattle, teaching his Chemistry students. On those chilly mornings, just past sunrise, I’d walk out into the clearing next to the orchard, size up and select from those wanting to work, and tell them that I was the crew boss. “Uh huh, yeah right”… I could see them thinking… almost a jeer.

Because I was fluent in Spanish, I wasn’t an orchardist grunting orders at them. I’d hustle through the orchard, check each man’s work, inspect the fruit and chit-chat as I went. We talked about symphonic music, art, politics, religion, culture… out in the middle of the orchard rows, of all places!

After 10 days of working hard, side-by-side, from early morning into the hot afternoon and sometimes early evening… After they saw me driving tractor, “humpin’ bins” through the orchard rows, and sweating alongside of them, we developed mutual respect and camaraderie. We worked hard together and we laughed hard together.

Introductions

I wanted to introduce the men that worked for us throughout the year, and especially during the intensity of September’s harvest. The orchardists that spoke no Spanish missed out on sharing real character and humanity with those they employed. I wanted to give them dignity by sharing their stories.

I asked the men for several things:

Name, age, birthplace
Length of time in the U.S.
Personal message in Spanish (which I then translated)

I received all or part of what I asked for. One man wanted to respond, but appeared sheepish; he was illiterate. One of his co-workers volunteered and wrote down his story to give to me.

At the time, the internet was still pretty new and quite limited. I told the men that I was going to put their photos and messages online, with the pie-in-the-sky idea that their families back home could see their faces and read their words. As it turned out, just the other side of the mountains from Microsoft, there were no public computers for the men to view their own stories, and their families back home in Mexico and Central America certainly didn’t have computers with internet access.

Postscript

Gathering these stories and images had always been meaningful to me. In light of the focus on immigration we’re (still) seeing today (2021), I wanted to repeat the post from 1999. It offers a brief intro to 15 of the men, (in random order), that I’m proud to have worked so closely with over the years. Their messages were copied from their own handwriting on September 15, 1999.

Read their messages. Some are so profound… some so touching. Armando Rodriguez Castillo “looks like” someone you “wouldn’t want to mess with”, yet read his message! It just about knocked me off my feet when I first read it:

“There is no greater loneliness
than that in which there is no God.”

Armando’s written message was a lesson against stereotyping.

I look at these photos now, at the beginning of 2021, and realize that these men are now 21 years older. Where are they now? Eligio was 17 years old; he’s 38 now! And Baldo was 59; he’d be 80 now. I hope they are well.

(Only in the first two years of my involvement with the farm did we have even a couple of non-Latinos show up wanting to pick pears. And it was only once or twice that a woman showed up with her husband so they could pick together. Thus, I am introducing all Latino men.)

CLICK EACH PHOTO TO ENLARGE IT.

Armando Ruiz Tovar

38 Years Old.
Born in Uruapan, Michoacan, Mexico.
1 Year in the United States.

“Con mucho carino. Escribo estas cuantas palabras para mi esposa, y hijos deciandoles lo mejor del mundo. Por que de casado tengo 16 anos y pienso de lo agusto que bibo como que fue ayer cuando me case.

“Con mucho carino para todos mis hijos que se llaman Rocio, Francisco, Rubi, Claudia y Irene. Mi esposa Estela Gomez C. y Armando Ruiz Tovar y Famila.”

“With much affection, I write these few words for my wife and kids telling them the best of the world. I’ve been married 16 years and I think of that August like it was yesterday that I got married.

“With much affection for my children named Rocio, Francisco, Rubi, Claudia and Irene. My wife Estela Gomez C. Armando Ruiz Tovar Y Familia”

Donato Campos Cisneros

18 Years Old.
Born in El Tibor, Guerrero, Mexico.
1 Year in the United States.

“Quiero mandarles un mensaje a mi familiares especialmente a mi mama y a mis hermanos. Les quiere decir que no me he olvidado de ustedes que aunque este muy lejos, yo aqui los recuerdo todos los dias, y que yo aqui me encuentro muy bien echandole muchas ganas al trabajo y a la Escuela que me enscibi para aprender Ingles para cuanda vaya yo para alla para que digan que si lleve algode aqui.

“Y para todos mis amigos muchos saludos, y tambien le doy las gracias a la persona que me dio la oportunidad de poner este mensaje. No les digo Adios si no hasta pronto. Gracias.”

“I want to send a message to my family, especially to my mom and my brothers and sisters. I want to tell them that I haven’t forgotten them even though I’m far away, and I remember them every day while I’m here, and I’m doing well here and putting aside a lot of fun for work and school where I’m learning English.

“Greetings to all my friends, and also thank you to the person that gave me the opportunity to write this message. I’m not saying ‘goodbye’ to everyone but very soon ‘thank you’.”

Isidoro Sanchez Oregon

52 Years Old.
Born in Guerrero, Mexico.
3 Years in the United States.

“De parte de Isidoro Sanchez y de sus hijos que se encuentran alla en Washington, les mandan saludos a la Senora Alejandrina Vivera que se encuentra en Zihuatanejo, Guerrero y sus hijas y familia. Esperamos que se encuentren bien.

“Bueno, nosotros estamos aca echandoles ganas a la chamba y esperamos ir pronto para alla si dios quiere.

“Bueno, nos despedimos de ustedes y portense bien. Saludos a toda la familia Sanchez Rivera.”

“From Isidoro Sanchez and his sons here in Washington, we send greetings to Mrs. Alejandrina Vivera who is in Zihuatanejo, Guerrero, and her daughters and family. We hope you’re well.

“We’re here putting aside our pleasures, and we hope to go (home) soon if God is willing.

“Well, we bid you farewell and be well. Greetings to all the Sanchez Rivera Family.”

Francisco Gomez Castillo

22 Years Old.
Born in Agililla, Michoacan, Mexico.

“Este es un mensaje de Francisco, i dino alas drogas por que el que anda en las drogas anda en mal camino i todo el tiempo va a vivir escondido de los demas. Este es un caso de la vida real atontamente el charro.”

“This is a message from Francisco against drugs because he who is on drugs is on a bad path and all the time he will live hidden from others. This is a case of the foolishly lived life.”

Abraham Moreno

42 Years Old.
Born in Guerrero, Mexico.
3 Years in the United States.

“Que todas las familias del mundo permanescan siempre unidos y en especial las familias mexicanas y se acabe la violensia. Familiar saludos a la familia Barrios Calderon, a la familia Onofre Garcia, Bridgeport, WA.”

“That all the families of the world remain forever united and especially Mexican families, and that violence would end. Greetings to the Barrios Calderon Family and to the Onofre Garcia family in Bridgeport, WA.”

Ernesto Proa

26 Years Old.
Born in Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico.
2 Years in the United States.

“Hola. La vida es bonita aunque hay momentos en que nos sentimos que no nos comprende nadien. Siempre hay solucion. Nunca busque la puerta falsa. Sigue adelante y lucha por alcansar tus metos. Sonrie y se felix.”

“Hi. Life is beautiful even though there are moments when we feel we don’t understand anyone. There’s always a solution. Never look for the false door. Continue ahead and struggle to overcome your diffuculties. Smile and be happy.”

Anastacio Nuñez Rosales

21 Years Old.
Born in Zacateca, Mexico.
3 Years in the United States.

“A toda mi familia, mis amigos, mis abuelitas, a mis primos, saludo desde aqui para todos desde aqui miren como esta aqui trabajando en las peras.”

“To all my family, my friends, to my grandmothers, my cousins, greetings from here. To all, from here, see how it is here working in the pears.”

Manuel Olivares Gonzalez

24 Years Old.

Armando Rodriguez Castillo

28 Years Old.
Born in Salamanca, Guanajuato, Mexico.
7 Years in the United States.

“No hay peor soledad que aquella donde Dios no esta.”

“There is no greater loneliness than that in which there is no God.”

Eligio Torres Blanco

17 Years Old

Baldomero “Baldo” Valdovinos

59 Years Old.
Born in El Tibor, Mexico.
10 Years in the United States.

“Un mensaje a todos mis amigos que me vean piscando pera en la huerta de mi patrona Maria y el patron Arturo y principalmente a todos mis amigos de mi rancho, El Tibor y a toda mi familia que me vea.

“Y es todo lo que les dice, su amigo, Baldomero.”

“A message to all my friends that see me picking pears in the orchard of my bosses ‘Maria’ and ‘Arturo’ and principally to all my friends at home in El Tibor and to all my family that sees me.

“And that’s all I say to you, your friend, Baldomero.”

Jose Suazo

39 Years Old.

Luis Alonso Barrera

43 Years Old.
Born in El Salvador.
12 Years in the United States.

Sergio Rodriguez Mendoza

24 Years Old.

Efrain Mendoza Romero

32 Years Old.
Born in Michoacan, Mexico.
15 Years in the United States.

“Saludos a todos.”

“Greetings to everyone.”

Sanremo’s Pinecone—La Pigna

by Maureen | Oct 9, 2019 | Blog, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Sanremo

Sanremo. In the far, far northwest along the Italian Riviera, in the region of Liguria, roughly a 20 km stone’s throw from the border with France. Only about 42 km from Monaco. There are palm trees, blue skies, a beachside promenade and bike path, a large casino, a Saturday market that draws foreigners, and traffic that would make anyone swear off driving.

There’s also Sandra, my landlady when I lived here from 2009 – 2010… and our friendship. When I first met her, I had been here in Italy only a couple of months and could speak very little Italian. But I’m sure she was thrilled to be renting to a “mature woman” instead of rowdy students. She invited me to visit them at their home… and I’ve returned every year since then. I travel there with my apron, and we chat while we scrub mussels and clams for spaghetti, or she makes Sardenara—typical Ligurian focaccia topped with tomato sauce, anchovies, taggiasche olives and garlic cloves.

A few years ago, Sandra told me about “La Pigna”–PEEN-yuh–and dropped me off there to shoot photos while she went to an appointment. Wow. I wandered and gladly crisscrossed the rabbit warren maze of narrow passageways, tunnels, arches and tiny courtyards. I was amused and pleased to see elders as they scaled the upward sloping, irregular, stepped paths. They must know every path’s intersection. The place was fascinating.

Founded around the year one thousand, Sanremo Vecchia is called La Pigna due to its characteristic massed streets and its medieval fortifications in the image of a pine cone. The village was continuously expanded and reinforced until the sixteenth century to defend it from pirate attacks. La Pigna starts from the 14th century Porta di Santo Stefano, an arch of stone in Gothic style that constitutes a sort of connection between the modern city and the ancient one.

The inhabited core is completely clinging to the hill in concentric rings with covered passages, small courtyards, arches, fountains and stairways, in a succession of bold architecture. (Read more)

I generally seek out the the historic center—“centro storico”—of any town or city I’m visiting. Rarely am I seeking out the bright lights and polish. A place like “La Pigna” continues to fascinate me with its history, its wandering passages, its rough texture and intrigue.

20,000 Steps in Torino

by Maureen | Oct 8, 2019 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graphics, Incredible Locations, Italy, Torino

Torino. Turin. A lovely city in the far northwest of Italy, in the Piedmont region—Piemonte—an hour’s ride on the fast train, west of Milano. I had been there 10 years ago for a short afternoon and saw so little of it then that I wanted to go back. Lovers of letters swoon over the historic and vintage signage there, so I went specifically to shoot letterforms… and a few city sights as well.

The city used to be a major European political centre. From 1563, it was the capital of the Duchy of Savoy, then of the Kingdom of Sardinia ruled by the Royal House of Savoy, and the first capital of the unified Italy (the Kingdom of Italy) from 1861 to 1865.[7][8] Even though much of its political significance and importance had been lost by World War II, Turin became a major European crossroad for industry, commerce and trade, and is part of the famous “industrial triangle” along with Milan and Genoa. Turin is ranked third in Italy, after Milan and Rome, for economic strength. With a GDP of $58 billion, Turin is the world’s 78th richest city by purchasing power.

The city has a rich culture and history, being known for its numerous art galleries, restaurants, churches, palaces, opera houses, piazzas, parks, gardens, theatres, libraries, museums and other venues. Turin is well known for its Renaissance, Baroque, Rococo, Neo-classical, and Art Nouveau architecture. Many of Turin’s public squares, castles, gardens and elegant palazzi such as the Palazzo Madama, were built between the 16th and 18th centuries. Turin’s attractions make it one of the world’s top 250 tourist destinations and the tenth most visited city in Italy in 2008.

I didn’t go to any of the museums or exhibits, though there were, and always are, many. Instead, I wandered 20,000 steps, following my whims and my nose, until a blister formed on one toe. There really are some gem signs in Torino, and if that’s not what you’re into, there are plenty of other beautiful marvels to make you swoon.

Antiques are older in Italy

by Maureen | Sep 29, 2019 | Blog, Canals, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano, Shopping & Markets

The day of the Mercatone Antiquariato—big, antiquarian market—here in Milano, stretching out along both sides and the length of the Naviglio Grande—the Grand Canal. Always the last Sunday of the month, and always attended by hordes, both Italian and foreign. It’s fascinating just to LOOK, whether you find anything to cart home with you or not.

I also go to the other, smaller markets with painter Loredano on Sunday mornings, bright and early. Vendors are out there setting up by flashlight, and buyers/browsers also come with flashlights, hoping to catch sight of some treasure before someone else snatches it.

Antiques are older here in Italy. I overhear “the regulars” discussing items: “Oh, it’s not very old. It’s only from the 1800s.” It’s very funny to me. In the U.S., if it’s 50 years old, it’s an “antique”, or thereabouts.

Another curious thing is how they note the centuries. They say “Ottocento“—800—rather than 1800. The same with 700, 600, etc. They drop the 1000.

At the flea markets, I find things that are centuries old, that have traded hands who knows how many times, have ended up bouncing around in an old cardboard box in the back of some vendor’s van, and then displayed on the pavement. A select few of those things have ended up back in Burien with me. One notable treasure is the Big Old Book I brought home a couple of years ago that is a collection of documents with the earliest date of 1576. What a history these things have! If only I knew all the places they’ve been.

Here comes the rain.

by Maureen | Sep 22, 2019 | Blog, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

Here it is: Rain in Milano. I’ve been keeping an eye on the weather forecast and their prediction of rain for today and tomorrow. Why do you think I walked 15,000 steps in the balmy sunshine all day, both Friday and Saturday?! I knew this was coming. And when it rains in Milano, it really RAINS, with no mercy. I even bought silicone galoshes for this trip! These are new-fangled, super-stretchy things, not like old time galoshes we might envision.

So, picture this. You’re here in Italy for a week or four. You get caught in the middle of a rain shower and your shoes are now drenched. You’ll be walking around with wet, cold feet from now until you can get your shoes dried out. If it were sunny—but it’s not—you could put your shoes on a sunny windowsill to dry them out. If the condo building had turned the heat on—which they haven’t—you could put your shoes on the radiator. If there were a clothes dryer—which there isn’t—you could tumble them dry. Your only options are to let them sit for a week while they dry out—if you have another pair of shoes to wear in the meantime. OR, dry them out in the oven on low, assuming you have an oven.

One time, (2013), I thought I’d be clever and beat the wet feet thing and I tied white plastic bags onto both my feet as I raced to the metro and train stations. Sure. Milan, Fashion capital of the world, and I had plastic bags on my feet, tied to my ankles. So chic! And still, they got wet.

Milano had been having a crashing, pouring rain all night and all morning, and I had to walk to the subway station to then get to the train station. I hate having wet feet and imagined having my shoes drenched and cold for 4 hours on the train. So I tied plastic bags onto my feet. So very chic. So high-fashion. (Somehow they got damp anyway.)

Yes, I do bring a pair of low, leather boots that I warmed in the oven in Seattle and slathered with mink oil and rain repellent. But there’s only so long until those seams stop repelling and let the rain come on in.

Wet feet can make you miserable, even if you’re on a dreamy holiday in Italy. Be prepared. Find a way to keep your feet dry and happy. The rest of the day will go well.

San Maurizio. Oh, Wow.

by Maureen | Sep 21, 2019 | Blog, Church, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

Yesterday, I walked 15,000 steps all over Milan, in areas I both have and haven’t seen before. I was out to explore and discover.

And OH! Did I discover!
San Maurizio al Monastero Maggiore, 15 Corso Magenta, Milan, Italy.

Absolutely stunning. The church looks unremarkable from the front, giving no hint of the splendor inside. Inside, however, every square centimeter, wall-to-wall, floor-to-high-arching-ceiling, is covered with frescoes of saints, scenes, fillagree… and even unicorns entering Noah’s Arc. I imagine one could spend a lifetime studying the imagery up close. Truly a marvel, whether you’re religious or not.

My terrace. La mia terrazza.

by Maureen | Sep 19, 2019 | Apartment, Blog, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Milano, Photos

8:15 P.M. and someone out there is playing the violin. There are also sounds of dogs, kids and dinner dishes. Occasionally a baby’s cry and people sneezing. This inner courtyard is a neighborhood unto itself, and very typically Milanese.

As you walk around Milan, the sidewalks are all faced with storefronts and “portoni”, great big gates sized for car entry, with small person-sized doors included. Behind those gates, one finds a courtyard, a garden, a mini-paradise sometimes. Bikes have their spots. There’s a patch of grass, or more. Some trees. Parking stalls for those that venture having cars. But none of this would you know from out on the sidewalk.

I’ve never been in an apartment with such a grand, expansive inner “courtyard”. That word seems hardly descriptive enough of the number of neighbors that must look out into this inner square of peace in the city. The multi-use buildings surrounding this enclosed space are 8 floors high. Out on the street around me, one finds a very large book store, cafés, bakeries, a kebab restaurant, a natural foods store, and a large grocery store, along with other smaller businesses. So much is all right here.

And my terrace! “La mia terrazza!” It’s bigger than my whole apartment! I could have a party with 50 or more out there enjoying the evening balm. (When I lived here for a year, my “terrace” was so small we called it “the shelf”.)

This really is a fabulous location. Because it’s encircled within this “courtyard”, it’s mostly shielded from city traffic sounds. For the most part, I hear the “neighbors”. Yet, in two blocks’ walk, I can be at the grocery store, or an even shorter walk to the metro. I can walk on the paths through two green parks to arrive at Leonardo’s Grand Canal, the Naviglio Grande, lined with restaurants, shops, artists’ studios and nightlife. I can easily hop onto the metro subway and get into the heart of town within 15 minutes, or rather choose to stroll and enjoy the sights along the way.

Che divino! How divine. Oh yes, it’s city life, but I did my stint on The Farm for 2 decades, so I’m not interested in “Under the Tuscan Sun”, renovating a dilapidated farm house. I want the hubbub and offerings of this big, international city. I want easy access to it all. I want the buzz and energy of it. But I also appreciate the peace offered to me by this giant terrace, jutting out into this enclosed space, private and yet oh so visible by all the other “neighbors”.

What did I pack?

by Maureen | Sep 17, 2019 | Apartment, Blog, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Journal, Milano, Photos, Quips

You’ve all heard “Pack light! Pack light!”

I agree, absolutely. And I think about EVERY single thing that goes into one suitcase or another. I think about its weight, its volume, its versatility, the ease of substituting something else for it, my desire/need for it, the “value” it will add to my trip. I get very analytical as I pare things down to a slim group of “to be packed”.

I end up arriving in Italy with a “small, personal item”, a carry-on rolling bag, and a larger checked bag when I come for a month or more. Milan is one of the Fashion Capitals of the world, and I’m here, with friends, for a month. It’s not like I’m here as a tourist, when and where I won’t be seen by anyone I know, going from city to city every couple of days. I have to/want to have enough variation to be “appropriate”…whatever that is, and to look “decent”.

So, what did I pack?

Generally, I’ve narrowed everything down to black, white, red and a very specific green. That alone simplifies everything. I packed:

3 red dresses. 2 have 3/4 length sleeves, 1 is sleeveless.
1 black and white sleeveless dress/tunic
2 black sleeveless dresses. 1 “young”. 1 “classic”
2 skirts: 1 short black, 1 classic floral
2 pairs of black pants: 1 heavyweight, 1 lightweight
2 3/4 sleeve blouses, 1 dusky lavender “Travel Shirt”, 1 cream silk
8 sleeveless tops: tanks/blouses, linen/knit, formal/casual. White, blush, green, red, black (each with a different “flavor”).
1 mid-calf pair of “sport” leggings for evening relaxation and under-dress/tunic look
2 red-patterned scarves
Plus underwear and a couple of t-shirts for layering when the weather starts to get cold.
I wear low boots on the plane, and change into “ballerina flats” upon arrival, with slippers to warm my feet against cold ceramic tile flooring in my apartment.
I have a “light” black jacket, plus a black rain jacket, and even some silicone galoshes to stretch over my shoes.
And since I live and WORK here for a month, I bring my computer, an external hard drive, a huge pile of plug and power converters, my pile of physical, paper client files, a few essential office supplies… Things that most “travelers” don’t need to haul.
I also usually bring my own wash cloths (since they’re not common here), a couple of dish towels and dish rags and an apron (since I always wear one),
Sometimes I bring single-edge razor blades (for scraping calcium deposits from around the sinks), pliers and screwdrivers for fixing things, Bon Ami for scrubbing, since I’m often renting a “student-grade” apartment that needs a good cleaning when I get there.
I bring my Melitta coffee filter cone and filters because I JUST LIKE MY COFFEE THAT WAY. Waiting to go out to “The Bar” for a shot of espresso and pastry just doesn’t do it for me in the morning.
I bring some toiletries (buying others once I get here), basic “First Aid” items, and “In Case I Catch a Cold” remedies.
And I usually bring a few gifts over with me, then flea market finds on the way home.

Could I pack even less? Oh yeah, probably. My mentor Sara Little used to have her “uniform” and she wore it every day. She’d be aghast at how much I carry. But I’m here for a month, not switching cities every three days, see my friends many times, and carry my work materials with me. It adds up.

A few years ago, I was helping some friends plan their whirlwind tour of Italy. I went over to their house to review their proposed travel wardrobe. They had two giant suitcases out on the bed, and two heaps of clothes. I removed half the pile of clothes, and suggested smaller suitcases. When they returned home, they said “we wish we had carried much less!”

Pare down

Try to eliminate. Try to multipurpose. Pare down as much as you can… and then, even more. ESPECIALLY if you’re going to some place like Cinque Terre or Venezia where mobility is difficult. You’ll be walking up and down narrow paths and staircases, carrying your suitcases, often unable to wheel them along. And if you’re changing locations every few days, you’ll be packing, unpacking and hauling everything repeatedly. Ugh. If it comes to your wearing the same thing every couple of days, so be it. Minimize… and you’ll be glad you did.

(As I write this, some would look at my photo and say “Oh Maureen, you’ve packed too much.” But I KNOW what’s ahead as far as luggage handling, clothing needs/desires, and work requirements. What I pack is appropriate for my month living and working in one place.)

Home Again

by Maureen | Sep 15, 2019 | Apartment, Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graffiti & Street Art, Graphics, Incredible Locations, Italy, Journal, Milano, Photos

Home again. It amuses and pleases me that returning to Milano, Italia, is so known and so comfortable. This is my twelfth “dodecesimo”, yearly sojourn. (Included in those years is a period, early on, of 14 intense, amazing months living here, learning the language, the people, and the place.) At this point, I would hate to miss a year. I want to nurture the relationships and maintain the language ability I’ve worked so hard to build.

Here I am, in a lovely apartment in the “Zona Navigli”, the Canal Zone, my neighborhood. (Leonardo da Vinci had a decisive hand in these canals, and that history makes me smile.) My private terrace juts out into a grand, inner courtyard. Feels like a neighborhood all unto itself. I hear kids playing, families talking, eating. Lots of life around me. In this area are some of my dear friends. I have my favorite restaurants, my local grocery stores, the office supply store I frequent. I know where to find what I need.

I arrived Thursday afternoon (9/11) after 24 HOURS OF TRAVEL. Ugh. Dinner out, then to sleep…until 9:30 the next morning. (Tip: if planning a trip from the U.S. to Italy, don’t figure on being full of vim-and-vigor that first full day in Italy!) I awoke slowly, had last night’s leftover pasta for breakfast, unpacked and got organized, made a shopping list, went to the cell phone carrier to recharge my Italian cell phone number, went to the Euro Store (equivalent of the Dollar Store) for cheap stuff that I want/need for the next month, grabbed enough to eat for today, then carried that pile home. I relaxed a while, took a nap, and by evening had enough energy to go back out for grocery shopping to last me a few days longer.

Kitchen/Dining area.

Living/Dining area, with a door out to the terrace.

My bedroom, with TWO doors out to the terrace.

My very ORANGE bathroom.

My terrace is bigger than the whole apartment!

Panorama view of my terrace and the surrounding condo/apartments.

I first came to Italy in 2008. I’ve now been in and through 19 of the 20 regions of Italy. I’ve seen a lot. Small, tiny, little towns. Touristic hot spots. Big cities. “Unknown” places that have all the charm and flavor that most Americans imagine when they think of Italy.

This place really does captivate me.

Milano seems to be hardly on anyone’s list. They all fly into Milano, and then keep right on going. But there’s so much here that thrills my mind, my eye and my heart. I guess that Milano invites one to look more closely, more deeply to be charmed.

Milano is one of the Design Capitals of the World. (One of the reasons it tugs at me, a designer.) In fact, we’re right on the verge of Milan Fall Fashion Week, September 17-23. There are very tall, very skinny women (models) walking around town, taking the subway and buying next-to-nothing at the grocery store. This is also the time when students check into the various schools in the area for the coming school term. The airport and metro station were FULL of people when I arrived on Thursday. And it’s a primo time to be wandering around Italy; the weather is beautiful.

Supergraphic sampling from these last few days in the neighborhood.

Supergraphic Blond Boy

Tanqueray Gin ad, 4 floors high.

Tired of Traffic?

Milano Bike City.

These ads are HUGE, and there’s a display screen just down the way.

Gelato Burger and Gin along the Grand Canal.

HUGE display screen with changing ads, (this one for IKEA—there are 5 in Milano) next to this historic church, S. Maria delle Grazie.

Super graphic ad in the Milan Malpensa Airport! What the hell?

Milano takes graffiti to an all-new level, both in a good way… and bad.

Music Heart Graffiti. Big, bold, bright and imaginative.

POP Bridge over the Naviglio Pavese (Canal).

Graffiti on an antifa-occupied apartment building.

Blue and heart graffiti.

WiFi Graffiti.

Good question: “When was the last time you did something for the first time?”

Dead Ends and Discovery

by Maureen | Sep 3, 2019 | Biking, Blog, Burien, Discoveries, Featured Articles

Dead End by Bike

When driving my car, I go just about the same route every time: the shortest, most efficient path between points A and B: Home, to Post Office, to Bank, to Grocery, to Home. Same old, same old. Bo-ring!

But on my bike, I notice that I’m going different routes every time! I GREW UP HERE in Burien (just south of Seattle) and yet I find myself on streets that I’ve NEVER been on before. On my bike I have a greater sense of discovery and exploration. I seek out the steepest hills I can find. I specifically veer onto every Dead End I encounter just to see “what’s down there”. I turn onto roads I’ve never turned onto before. I’ve discovered all sorts of great neighborhoods and fabulous houses.

I bought a Blix Vika+ E-Bike (Class 2—electric, pedal-assist with throttle, step-through, foldable, 20″ wheels) on May 31, and started riding the next day. In the three months since, I’ve logged 550 miles mostly toodling around Burien, with a few cruises through neighboring Normandy Park and Des Moines. I’m not exaggerating when I say that my Blix Vika has changed my life. Really.

When I’m on my bike, it’s a sensual experience. I smell the fragrant blackberries and conifers warmed on summer days. I can smell that the tide is out as I approach Three Tree Point. I hear the birds sing. I greet other cyclists. I stop to talk to neighbors and strangers along the way… That doesn’t happen when in my car.

Crazy, Random Routes of Dead Ends and Discovery

Look at some of the wild and wandering routes I’ve traveled just out of curiosity. I would never do this in my car. What a great way to get to know my City of Burien. (In the maps below, green paths show where I went fast—downhill—and yellow/orange/red are where I went slow—uphill and stop lights.)

I feel like a kid again.

In the past, I loved being a cyclist on a standard bike… but I also live on a very steep hill in a very hilly area (up to 16% Grade). From the bottom of my steep driveway, I either had to go immediately right up the slope, OR down-down-down to the Point, then up-up-up to town at the top. I could do it… until two years ago my knee said, “Nope. Sorry. Not doing this anymore.” One day I rode home one-legged: I pedaled with my right leg while my left leg hung off to the side, limp-cycling home.

Now, instead of driving my car for the roughly 4-mile round trip to the Post Office, Grocery and back, I’m riding my e-bike nearly every day for those errands. And I extend my route just to add exercise, fresh air and exploration each time.

On my e-bike: I feel like a kid again. I’m on my bike almost every day. I’m whistling and singing the whole time. Tra-la-la. And my knee is happy. I scoot right up the meanest hills I can find (and we’ve got HILLS here). When I wake up in the morning I ask myself when and where my ride will be for that day.

Maybe you have fond memories of cycling, but it’s been ages since you’ve been on a bike… maybe you’re out of shape and overweight… maybe your body parts are revolting… maybe the hills are really onerous… I urge you to go check out an electric bike. E-bikes make cycling so feasible. Like I said, it’s changed my life, and it’s brought some simple joy into my every day.

Travel Blog

by Maureen | Jun 16, 2019 | Blog

Italian Stone: Show of Fine Art Monoprints

Apr 27, 2023 | Blog, Featured Articles, Fine Art, Italy, Journal, Photos

Merging my multiple loves for expression, I have pulled from my 15 years of travel and 60,000 photos in Italy, and combined them with graphic overlays for one-of-a-kind monoprints. Milan, Florence,...

Signage, Graphics and Street Art Around Milan

Jan 20, 2022 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Graffiti & Street Art, Graphics, Italy, Milano

My Designer/Artist's eye thrills at the strong visuals of signage – old and new – graphic elements and street art that I find in Milan and beyond. Whether polished, "high design", antique lettering,...

Window Shopping in Milan

Jan 20, 2022 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

Milan – one of the fashion capitals of the world – has some knock-out, incredible, no-concept-or-cost-barred window displays! Walk along Via Monte Napoleone and Via della Spiga, the posh shopping...

Trattoria Villetta Bar

Jan 15, 2022 | Blog, Discoveries, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

When a photo of this little building popped up on the Milano per Sempre Facebook page, I thought, “I’ve got to go see that!” The age and “flavor” of the Trattoria Villetta Bar caught my eye.

After antiques, eating for hours on a hilltop in Ozzano

Jan 12, 2022 | Blog, Casale, Featured Articles, Food!, Italy, Meals, Monferrato, Ozzano

Hunting antiques by flashlight, followed by a drive in the frosty countryside, more antiques, then a three-hour meal with a view. Incredible.

Eighteenth Century Fashion at Palazzo Morando

Jan 11, 2022 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

In one of the fashion capitals of the world, what better sight is there to see than a show of eighteenth century clothing, and modern-day clothing it inspired. The show at Palazzo Morando is titled “Sette Cento” – literally “seven hundred”, but referring to the 1700s, thus the eighteenth century.

Mineral Collection at the Museum of Natural History of Milan

Jan 5, 2022 | Blog, Discoveries, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Milano

What an incredible, jaw-dropping collection of mineral specimens from around the world! Such size, color, geometry, variety, complexity/simplicity. Wow. In all these years of coming to Milano, I had...

Stresa, along the shore of Lago Maggiore

Jan 4, 2022 | Blog, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Lago Maggiore, Meals

What an invitation, to spend the day with Antonio, Donatella and Loredano at Lago Maggiore, in "the Lakes Region", northwest of Milan! Once beyond the autostrada, and partway along the lakeshore, we...

Cat-like New Year’s Eve Sunny Day

Dec 31, 2021 | Apartment, Blog, Featured Articles, Introspection, Italy, Journal, Milano

New Year’s Eve. 1:14 on a sunny afternoon. My tall doors open to the cool, 43-degree air, sun and the canal view streaming in. How delightful to sit here, cat-like, enjoying this bright winter day.

I like to eat in Italy.

Jan 12, 2022 | Blog, Cheese, Featured Articles, Food!, Italy, Meals

Oh, how I love to eat here in Italy. What is it that makes it all so delicious? Unlike the misconceptions, "Italian food" is NOT all "pizza and pasta". There's so very much more! The freshness of...

How does one use a bidet?

Dec 27, 2021 | Apartment, Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Italy, Milano

"How does one use a bidet? Is it for washing your feet? Is it for chilling your prosecco?"… Many American friends have been puzzled about using a bidet, and have asked for an explanation. With a...

Foggy Day After Christmas in Milan

Dec 27, 2021 | Blog, Featured Articles, Food!, Italy, Meals, Milano, Piacenza, Shopping & Markets

Post-holiday flea markets, a drive into the countryside, and a fabulous, regional meal.

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At Home Along Milan’s Grand Canal

by Maureen | Sep 22, 2018 | Apartment, Blog, Church, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Milano, Photos

Journal Entry: Wednesday, 12 September 2018 – Milan

Did I really just arrive in my home-away-from-home, Milan, this morning?! Here I am again. And it all feels so easy and familiar. Not that there is nothing new or no challenge. There is still much to see, explore, discover, learn. This place stretches me differently than Burien and Seattle. AND it’s a time entirely for me. (This is my 11th year of coming here.)

My apartment on the 5th floor, (circled), above the Naviglio night life.

I’m in a 5th floor walkup apartment*, no elevator. 90 Steps up to the front door. The entrance looks out over inner courtyards, gold-hued stucco, tile rooftops. Inside, there is an opening window from floor to ceiling that looks directly down onto the Naviglio Grande (the Grand Canal) and it’s changing bustle. The white noise of wine-fueled conversation during the evening aperitivo is oddly comfortable. *(The Italians call it the 4th floor; the ground floor is floor zero.)

The view to the south from the apartment entry door.

The view to the north from the floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the Naviglio Grande.

Other than celebrating my birthday in 3 days, and honoring Patti on the 2nd anniversary of her death, and having 2 girlfriends come here for 2 weeks… I don’t have a big, new goal or purpose for this trip. It’s just that I can’t not have my time in Italia, for whatever it is to me.

Journal Entry: Friday, 14 September 2018 – Milan, 8:30 a.m.

Sitting canalside, way up high, listening to morning sounds of church and cyclists’ bells, deliveries on cobblestone, traffic, sidewalk conversations. The city awakens.

Yesterday, I made my pilgrimage into the center of town to the Duomo (Cathedral) di Milano – which I love – and then strolled around through the adjacent Galleria and to Luini’s for a Panzerotto. Just being here with ease and familiarity… Feeling nestled in as much as a foreigner can.

The Duomo di Milano

Near the southeast corner of the Duomo, there is a sculpture of a disemboweled man. I suppose the sculptures and paintings were meant to inspire the illiterate masses to live according to the Church’s tenets… or suffer the consequences.

The domed, glass roof of the Galleria.

One of the Louis Vuitton window displays in the Galleria.

Luini’s was established in 1888 and is a popular spot with locals and those that stumble upon it, tucked onto a side street just north of the Duomo. They sell Panzerotti: stuffed, deep-fried (or baked) hot pockets. Lots of filling options!

Along the Naviglio Grande (Grand Canal) the San Cristoforo dragon boats and kayaks cruise through every day, to the beat of a drummer to keep time, occasionally accompanied by the church bells. (CanottieriSanCristoforo.it)

Journal Entry: Thursday, 20 September 2018 – Milan

Days have been hot and humid, but have turned delicious, from 75 – 80 degrees and a freshness from a few nighttime showers.

View from the sleeping loft, down into the living room and beyond, to the Naviglio night life.

It is rather dreamy that I “get” to do this. But really, there’s no “getting” involved. I have made and do make different choices and I’ve structured my life so that I can spend some of it here in an entirely different place and mode.

My Farmer’s Market Purchases: Clockwise, from upper left: Taralli with black pepper, produce bag with the Duomo on it, Borlotti beans, castelvetrano olives, pickled onions, turkish figs, yellow peaches, onions, tuna stuffed red peppers, green string beans.

This feeds me, and it pushes me. Foreign country, language, customs. And Milan. An international seat of design, which gives it such contrast and stark visual appeal. The old history, side-by-side with clean, high design, honed and spare. I thrill at Milan. Every city could take a lesson from its well-defined branding and identity.

The recycling trucks start along the Naviglio Grande at about 6:00 in the morning. Since the Naviglio is such a restaurant and drinking hot spot, there are thousands of bottles to be collected. The sound they make when dumped is such a crashing clamor to wake up to!

Journal Entry: Saturday, 22 September 2018 – Milan

Warm day. The Naviglio is in a relaxed stroll. A street musician is playing his guitar along the canal, out in front of the elementary school. The white noise of conversation at outdoor, umbrella-covered cafè tables drifts up to my open window, high above. I marvel that this is possible. That I can pack my bags, bring my work and step into this life for a period. Remarkable.

Up North to Haida Gwaii

by Maureen | Sep 4, 2018 | Blog, Canada, Featured Articles, Food!, Haida Gwaii, Incredible Locations, Journal, People, Photos

Haida Gwaii. You can’t get there on a whim. It’s neither quick, nor easy… nor inexpensive. But it IS stirring and complicated, rich and layered. Full of history and feeling. This year marked the 25th year since my first visit there. (In the 90s it was a yearly trek.) The people – Merle, Knud and their family – and the place, stick with me. It had been 7 years since my last visit. This trip was long overdue.

Haida Gwaii, for many years, had been called the Queen Charlotte Islands, though the Haida had never signed a treaty with Canada! In 2010 the cluster of 150+ islands officially reclaimed their traditional name of “Haida Gwaii” as part of the Haida Gwaii Reconciliation Act. Here’s the flag of the Council of the Haida Nation, depicting the Raven and Eagle Clans. (I’m connected, through Merle, to the Ravens.) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Haida_Gwaii

The following is a gathering of Facebook posts during my time there this year, bringing them all together in one place. Travel with me for the week.

Haida Gwaii is waaaaay up there. On a clear day, you can see Alaska right there on the horizon.

(Click on any photo for a larger view.)

July 26, 2018 – Vancouver to Old Massett, Haida Gwaii

Vancouver B.C. Airport is filled with regional First Nations’ art (including work by Merle’s nephew, Reg Davidson). Such rich and refined artistic heritage!

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4:15 PM. Been at the Vancouver airport since about 10:00 this morning. The flight over to the island was supposed to have left at 1:10. We boarded and deplaned TWICE. Allegedly, we’ll now fly out at 6:00. Hopefully they will still have an evening shuttle ferry between the islands. Merle and her husband, elders, will have driven an hour and a half and waited 6 hours for my arrival. I’m fine. I just feel bad about their discomfort and inconvenience.

11:15 PM. JUST got home to Merle and Knud’s. We finally flew out of Vancouver at about 6:15 or 6:30. Got to Sandspit on Moresby Island at 8:15. Yes, the ferry north to Graham Island was done for the night. But, typical of small communities, one kind soul ran two shuttle loads of people to the boat dock, and another loaded us up and ferried us over in his boat, leaving from the floatplane dock. Merle and Knud had long since gone home and their son Andy was there waiting to drive me home. The moon was full and coming over the horizon and the light in the sky had dimmed fully just before we got to Old Massett.

Abalone in the shell, just off the dock.

The boat to take us from Moresby Island north to Graham Island.

A drum cover sitting on the seat in front of me on the boat.

July 27, 2018 – Food Fish in Old Massett

King salmon: it’s what’s for dinner. Local Haida commercial fishermen drove through the Haida village this morning at 11:30, distributing salmon. They dropped off 2 “springs” (Kings) and 8 pinks to us. By 1:30, we had them cleaned, brined and laid out in the sun, getting ready to go into the smokehouse. I’m guarding against ravens stealing, while Merle and Knud go to cut fresh alder. The smoked pinks will go to feed the elders this winter.

Delivering fish to those in the village.

Scale. Gut. Filet. Smoke.

A mess of fish.

In the brine. Water. Brown Sugar… and enough salt to float a potato.

Fish-Cleaning aprons from Merle’s sister, Emily. They were anniversary gifts to Merle and Knud.

How do flies know so quickly when there’s fresh meat to be had?!
(I’ll give you one guess what my hands smell like.)

Home-canned smoked sockeye for lunch. And guess what’s for dinner…

July 27, 2018 – Round Two

We were just given more fish: 6 Sockeyes and 1 big King. So we cleaned them and they’re in the brine.

July 27, 2018 RECAP

What a day! The Haida commercial fishermen drove through the village giving out salmon. We got 2 kings and 8 pinks at 11:30 am. We had them scaled, gutted, filleted, brined and in the smoke house by 1:30. Just as we finished cleaning up, they came by with more salmon! This time 6 sockeye and 1 king.

We decided to have lunch first: home-canned, smoked sockeye and Knud’s homemade rye bread. We put the fish bones on to simmer and went out to clean the next batch of fish.

We needed one more cedar rack for the smoke house, so I built that from split planks. Before dinner, we took all the fish guts, bones and trimmings to the sea wall and threw them over. The eagles will get what they can before the tide comes in and washes it all away.

For dinner, I made salmon chowder with the bone broth after Merle and I picked the bones clean. Tomorrow we’ll vacuum pack the smoked pinks for the elders in the village during winter, and the rest of it for family. We’ll have salmon melts on rye bread for lunch and barbecued salmon for dinner.

(Most people go to lie on sunny, sandy beaches for their vacations. Ha! I go where I need rubber boots, rain gear and a fish cleaning apron.) This trip marks my 25th anniversary of coming to Masset. ❤️

We needed another rack for the smokehouse. Knud split the wood and I tacked it together (since I can get down to the ground more easily than he can… I’m already halfway there!

The whole village has been tossing fish guts and scraps over the seawall. Eagles will get what they can before the tide comes in.

Sockeye and king just out of the smoker. Now we’re pulling lateral bones and prepping for vacuum packing and the freezer. Sunny, north wind morning.

Freezer full of fish for the winter. Look at that COLOR!!!

July 28, 2018

Walking around the Village of Old Massett…

Street signs in the Haida Village of Old Massett.

July 29, 2018

Wandering around the old cemetery here in the Village of Old Massett, I find gravestones of whole families wiped out by smallpox. I imagine the sorrow throughout town in those years.

In the new cemetery, there’s a section for repatriated remains.

Cemetery for Repatriated Remains

Anthropologists used to steal all sorts of bodily, funerary and memorial remains from local, indigenous peoples. (All over the world!) They did this under the guise of research and historic preservation. Thankfully, in 1990, the Native American Graves Protection and Repatriation Act (NAGPRA) was enacted. Remains have come home to Haida Gwaii and been reburied as recently as 2014.

These are the graves of the repatriated remains.

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Repatriated in 2010 from the Pitt Rivers Museum in Oxford, England.

Repatriated in 2014 from the American Museum of Natural History, New York, New York.

Repatriated from the Field Museum in Chicago, Illinois.

While washing dishes after the post-church service luncheon, I smiled when I saw the bottom of one of the plates. “Beautiful Italy.”

Merle is always so elegant.

July 30, 2018

I got up at 8:00 this morning and Merle already had buns and a loaf of bread in the oven!

My Haida brothers, nephews and niece. (One brother missing, plus a sister and another niece and nephew)

Kaden, Tanner, Peter, Andy.

Me and Julia.

July 31, 2018

This was the fishing shack we bought in New Masset 25 years ago. It needed to be bulldozed then!!! It’s gone now. We used to sit at the dinner table with binoculars and watch the fishermen come in, seeing what they had caught. Wonderful view looking out to the docks.

(Click on this panorama for a larger image of the marina view.)

July 31, 2018 – Northeast to Tow Hill

Clambered out today to the base of Tow Hill and the Blow Hole at Naikoon Provincial Park, at north beach… one of my favorite beaches in the world (pebbles!).

In the distance, the path leading up to the top of Tow Hill.

There’s a boardwalk from the parking area all the way out to The Blow Hole at Tow Hill, ideal for all folks, especially Knud with his walker.

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This is the tumble of rocks (at the right) that I clambered over to get to my favorite spot. The tide was coming in, so I had to keep an eye on it so as not to get trapped! (Seven years ago I saw bear dung on those rocks as I crossed.)

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August 1, 2018

Around Old Massett and New Masset today…

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(Click on the panorama below for a larger view of this wooded lot in Old Massett.)

Pride in New Masset.

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South side of the post office in New Masset.

August 2, 2018 – Returning Home

Salmon’s coming home. (It matches my suitcase.)

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At the Skidegate ferry dock, waiting to cross south over to Moresby Island. This sailing ship is flying the flag of the Haida Nation.

Midway along the ferry ride from Graham Island, at the north, to Moresby Island, at the south.

Gwaii Haanas

Seen at the airport in Sandspit, on Moresby Island (the south island).

Machine Guns and Fireworks

by Maureen | Jan 1, 2017 | Blog, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Introspection, Italy, Journal, Milano

Journal Entry. 1 Gennaio 2017 (January 1, 2017) – Milano

Day 3 of a cold that has kept me layin’ low. Enforced rest. Certainly no kicking-up-my-heels last night. By 8:30 p.m. I was yearning for sleep.

New Year’s Eve, 2009/2010 I stayed at home here, writing, as I generally do. I could have gone to the Piazza del Duomo then, for the Italian New Year’s festivities. Instead, I listened to the fireworks outside, while seated at the long table in my home on Via Bordighera.

The opportunity for a carefree, celebratory hurrah in front of the Duomo has passed. The reports I see from last night show the beloved cathedral and its perimeter barricaded, armored, protected by police and military with machine guns. All holiday revelers faced searches and long lines to proceed through to the New Year’s concert. The metro stops to the Duomo were closed completely.

It was, in fact, leading up to this as Christmas approached, too. Feeling spirited and festive, Piazza del Duomo visitors enjoyed the advent concerts amidst heavily armed military and barricades.

Last night, lying in bed as midnight approached, I listened to fireworks, but also sounds that could have easily been real bombs. How would I have known? After each explosion, sometimes feeling my bed shake, I listened for sirens – or their absence – and took the pulse by the tone of voices I heard out in the courtyard. I figured that if there were true danger, then sirens and voices would speak of such urgency.

This morning I read in the news reports of mayhem along the Naviglio Pavese, just two blocks away. I guess that some of those ka-booms may have, indeed, been bombs.

It’s come to this: proactive protection of beloved, sacred places; the thought that a loud “bang” could indeed be a bomb; The adjustment to and acceptance of bodily searches; the anticipation of attacks; the realization that every conspicuous, large gathering is potentially a vulnerable target and, therefore, a gut-driven avoidance of such crowds.

Does that mean the terrorists have won? They, who have no regard of life, cultural treasure or community well-being have changed us. They have changed how we think and what we do. Whether they kill any more people or destroy any more cultural heritage sites, or not, they have gotten into our heads.

I looked at New Year’s Eve reports in the Seattle Times and only found beautiful pictures of fireworks emanating from the Space Needle. There was no mention of machine guns or barricades. I guess we still enjoy being in an imaginary bubble there. (We’re more visibly armed against each other than we are against outside threats.)

When here in Europe, sitting so close to the center of a major, international city, I suppose I’m closer to genuine danger than when I’m sitting in my lovely home in Burien, looking out over the water. But I still chose to come. This is the first year (of 9 in a row) when the suspicion of danger, and the armament against it, has been so evident. Much has changed in the world in 9 years.

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Many years ago in an Adult-Ed program, a particular exercise guided me in seeing when and how I was influenced by my fears, from the smallest hesitations to the largest decisions. It was eye-opening and a jolt to my view of myself. Since then, I have tried to at least recognize when it’s been fear that’s been constraining my choices. I don’t like to think of my decisions and outlook as being fear-based.

How do we reconcile it all? How do we balance fear and openness? How do we listen to the daily, world news reports and not develop protective callouses? How do we see machine guns and not succumb to the fear they arouse? (And that’s not even talking about the places in the midst of outright war!)

Being right here, right now, has made the world situation undeniable and right-up-in-my-face. The challenge then, is to acknowledge the terrors that exist, be prudently alert, choose openness anyway, then seek out and marvel at the kindnesses that reveal themselves at an individual level. It’s what I must do to keep from cowering, afraid.

(Images from Corriere della Sera)

Liberty in Milan

by Maureen | Dec 14, 2016 | Blog, Design, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy, Journal, Milano, Photos

Casa Galimberti

How many times has someone said to me with a sneer, “Oh… Milan. It’s so gray and industrial.” They turn up their noses and dismiss it as merely a place to fly into as they transfer to their “real” destinations.

Yes. Milan is a major international, cosmopolitan city, the financial hub of the country, (also one of the design capitals of the world). Yes, there’s industry. Yes, there’s fog and haze that make the sky leaden-gray in the winter.

But Milan has so much to intrigue the eye for those willing to look… to really see. Right now, I don’t intend to even begin to list the marvels found here. Rather, I want to toss out visual tidbits to introduce “Liberty.” In this case, we’re not talking about freedom, but rather an aesthetic style corresponding to Art Nouveau, as expressed in architecture built here in Milan during a 15-year period at the start of the 20th century.

I offer these photos to tantalize, to counter the dismissals, to show just a few of the many reasons to make Milan more than just a passing-through sort of place.

Over the weekend, on a chilly, sunny, December morning, I joined a group of 10 locals on a “visita guidata” – a guided tour – of specific grand villas and surrounding neighborhoods in which the Liberty Style is so present. The exterior beauty is visible to any passerby. But being able to have interior tours and to hear history is the glory of being with a trained guide. I will begin at the end of our walking tour. (Click on the photos to enlarge them and enter the slide shows.)

Casa Galimberti – Via Malpighi 3

Of all the buildings and all the ornamentation I’ve seen around town, this one is the most jaw-dropping for me. The figurative ceramic tiles and the wrought iron are swoon-worthy and a must-see for any lover of art, architecture and beauty.

From Wikipedia: Designed by the architect Giovanni Battista Bossi (1864-1924) in 1903–1905 on behalf of Galimberti brothers, is considered one of the most brilliant pieces of Liberty Milan thanks to the covering of a large part of the external facade with ceramic figurative tiles, wrought iron and floral motifs in cement, all designed by Bossi.

Casa Galimberti

Palazzo Castiglioni – Corso Venezia 47

From Wikipedia: Palazzo Castiglioni is an Art Nouveau palace of Milan, northern Italy. It was designed by Giuseppe Sommaruga and built between 1901 and 1903. The rusticated blocks of the basement imitate a natural rocky shape, while the rest of the decorations are inspired by 18th century stuccos. The building is now used as the seat of the Unione Commercianti di Milano (Traders’ Union of Milan).

Palazzo Castiglioni

Casa Campanini – Via Bellini 11

From Wikipedia: Casa Campanini (“House Campanini”) is a prominent Art Nouveau building in Milan, Italy, located at 11, Via Bellini. It was realized between 1903 and 1906 by architect Alfredo Campanini, who later inhabited the building.

A main visual feature of the buildings are the concrete caryatids located at its main entrance, by the sculptor Michele Vedani, which represent an obvious reference to those of Palazzo Castiglioni (by architect Giuseppe Sommaruga), another prominent Art Nouveau building of Milan. The wrought iron gate, designed by Campanini himself and realized by Alessandro Mazzucotelli (a renowned representative of Milanese Art Nuoveau sculpture) is decorated with flower patterns; similar decorations are also found in the internal lift cage, also in iron.

The interior of the palace has a number of polychrome glasses, friezes, and frescos, all in an Art Nouveau style; some of the inner rooms still house the original furniture and pottery. Notable decorations, representing cherries, are found on the ceiling of the internal yard.

Casa Campanini

Palazzo Berri-Meregalli – Via Vivaio 8

From Wikipedia: Built between 1911 and 1913 by architect Piacenza Giulio Ulisse Arata , it is an exuberant example of eclectic architecture.

The palace was manufactured from 1911 along with the other two buildings in the same area, home Berri-Meregali in via Mozart and the second house Berri-Meregalli Via Barozzi.

The building, with its corner facade, conveys a powerful idea of monumentality accentuated by an exasperated eclecticism with Romanesque elements recognizable in the stones, in brickwork, the arches and in the lodges, which alternate with Gothic and Renaissance mixed languages to new taste liberty in vogue in those years with cherubs carved, frescos and wrought iron of the famous Alessandro Mazzucotelli . In the entrance hall you can admire mosaics and ceilings of Angiolo D’Andrea and Adam Rimoldi and the famous sculpture by Adolfo Wildt the victory of 1919.

Palazzo Berri-Meregalli

More Liberty and Other Beautiful
Things Seen Along the Stroll

Wandering around Milan, and Italy itself, feeds my eyes, mind and heart. I relish the creative thoughtfulness put into both broad scale and fine detail. I really LOOK, then take it in, then carry it home with me to let it percolate until it simmers and bubbles into something I set my hand to.

Here are images of other examples of Liberty seen along the guided tour… plus a few other beautiful things I couldn’t resist. Enjoy.

Liberty – Mixed-Front

Liberty – Mixed Front

Liberty – Balcony Railing

Liberty – Arancia

Liberty – Anno Domini

Liberty Administration Building

Liberty 1899 Front

Liberty – Mozart Front

Liberty Mozart Front Detail

Liberty Mozart Downspout

Liberty Barozzi Iron Detail

Liberty Barozzi Hallway

Liberty Wildt Ear

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St. Francis Would Rail at the Assisi of Today

by Maureen | Sep 27, 2015 | Assisi, Blog, Featured Articles, Incredible Locations, Italy

High on a hill is the town of Assisi, home of Giovanni di Pietro di Bernardone, born in 1181, later known as Saint Francis, “San Francesco d’Assisi“. But Francesco, one who relinquished all his worldly goods for a life of poverty and simplicity, would rail at the Assisi of today, the streets of which are lined with shops selling tourist and religious kitsch.

As part of a trip to Umbria, and as one who attended St. Francis of Assisi grade school and church (in Burien, Washington), Assisi was a “must see” for me. I simply had to look past the kitsch.

Lesson number one: “Assisi” is not pronounced “A-SISS-ee”, but is rather “Ah-SEE-zee”. It’s an Italian pronunciation thing.

Yes. Go to Assisi. See the beautiful and historic 13th century Basilica of San Francesco and the Basilica of Santa Chiara (St. Clare). Sit in front of the tomb of Francesco with whatever sense of mystery fills your life. Go inward and marvel for a moment. Also relish the lavish decoration of both basilicas (photos were not allowed) and allow it all to inspire you. Some of our world’s great artists lent their vision and talent to the imagery we see there today!

Assisi is a contrast between the devout and the opportunistic, but… with 4 to 5 million visitors a year, can we blame them for responding to the needs and wishes of the throngs?

Città di Castello

by Maureen | Sep 27, 2015 | Blog, Città di Castello, Featured Articles, Food!, Incredible Locations, Italy, Meals

Our first stop on our road trip through Umbria, the region landlocked in the middle of Italy: Città di Castello – City of the Castle. Which “castle” they’re referring to, I’m not quite sure, although the Palazzo Vitelli, built in 1500, sure adds grandeur and beautiful open space to the historic center of town.

Citta di Castello offers visitors the many marvels they most seek in Italy, but without the throngs of tourists: winding, narrow, cobbled streets day and night, regional Umbrian meals such as black truffle-topped fresh tagliatelle, and surroundings dense with history.

For a beautiful place to stay, contact Elisa at the Residenza Antica Canonica. The 15th century priests’ lodging is perfectly situated next to the Duomo, and the rooms are beautifully appointed.

In the morning stroll through town, find the local coffee shop and the produce vendor for some fruit and vegetables to carry with you as you continue on your travels.

Read, below, the original post from Milano per Sempre’s Facebook page,in Italian, and Google-translated into English.

Early morning flea market entry

Chiavarine chairs, delicate in appearance

Snow-dusted country field

Frosty country field

Cemetery out in a country field

You, too, could buy this place for just 1€. Ha ha ha

Art Nouveau “Liberty” market entrance in Casale

Junk and treasures

Dante Alighieri Books, 1865

Dante Alighieri, 1865

Dante Alighieri Books, 1865

Ahhh, the fresh cheeses!

Fur stoles, ruffs, hats, plus not-fur

Fur coats for 100€ each

Old tools, instruments, measuring devices

Old tools, instruments, measuring devices

Old tools, instruments, measuring devices

Old tools, instruments, measuring devices

Old tools, instruments, measuring devices

Nut and crab crackers. So sculptural!

View to Treville from Ozzana hill

View toward Casale from Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Inside Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Salume, pancetta, soppressata

Enjoying my slices of lard and soppressata

Lardo – Unusually meaty pieces of lard

Loredano and an unusually meaty piece of lardo – lard

Il vino rosso

Carne cruda – Steak tartare (chopped, raw beef)

Cardo – Wild artichoke in creamy parmigiano sauce

Risotto con noci – Risotto with walnuts

Il vino bianco

Tagliolini con carne

Brasato – Pot roast

Bonet Piemontese – like a steamed, chocolate bread pudding

Caffè e grappa

Maureen at Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

View toward Casale from Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

View toward Casale from Agriturismo Cascina Imarisia

Imarisia chicken coop

Imarisia chicken coop

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Read, below, the original post from Milano per Sempre’s Facebook page,
in Italian, and Google-translated into English.