by Maureen | May 29, 2014 | Blog, Discoveries, Featured Articles, Food!, Graphics, Journal, Meals, New York City, U.S.A.
My perception of the enormity, diversity, energy and intensity of New York had felt daunting all these years, so I had never gone. “Oh, I can’t just go to New York for a couple of days. How can I even begin to make a dent in seeing it?! Where do I start? What are the “musts”? And all my life I had heard about the “danger” of the city and its subways so there was trepidation built up that prevented me from going. Somehow it was easier for me to move to a foreign country and speak a foreign language, than it was for me to make a trip to New York City.
Enough.
I’ve flown Seattle-to-New York-to-Milan several times, never having ventured out of the JFK airport. This time I decided to stop in New York for 3 days and “dip my big toe in the water” of the city. Kind friends, Alta and Jonah, offered to let me stay in their cozy home with them in Long Island City, Queens. (Alta and I met 2 years ago in Milan through Legacy of Letters.) And dear Richard, another friend, offered to lead me on a whirlwind walking tour of the city; working for the Transit Authority, he’s in a prime position to know some obscure ins and outs of NYC. (He and I met in Sicily 3 years ago.)
It took hours to juggle and finally book 2 separate round trip tickets, and make allowances for all of the added complexity that it would heap on my travel: 1 SEA-NYC-SEA, 1 NYC-MXP-NYC. It really threw a wrench in customs, immigration, baggage handling, security, transfers, etc., but I wanted to see something of New York once-and-for-all! So I gave myself lots of “padding” in the schedule, tried to anticipate the unknowns, and booked it.
The first night, Friday May 9, Alta, Jonah and I went to a neighborhood Mexican restaurant for a bite to eat, then walked to the waterfront Gantry Plaza State Park to look across the east river to the city’s nighttime skyline. Welcome to New York! Shimmering in the fog.
Luminous skyline
Luminous (cell phone) skyline snapshot from across the water, at Long Island City (Queens), Gantry Plaza State Park.
Industrial remnants
At Long Island City
Breakfast with Alta
Alta serves up Macedonia, the Italian term for cut, mixed fruit, usually served for dessert after dinner.
The next day, Saturday May 10, Alta had meetings in town, so we both hopped on the subway and then split up. I was amused as I realized that it was Milan and Paris that prepared me for New York. “Hey! I can do this. It’s familiar to me now!” I wandered, explored, walked, looked. First, I mistakenly went south to the financial district in lower Manhattan (Oops. but that’s how discoveries are made.) I then headed back up north to Central Park and the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” Show. It was so inspiring! I swooned… and ordered the 10 pound book, which awaits me at home.
From MoMA, I just followed my nose south down 5th Avenue, Madison Avenue, Park Avenue… the places I had always heard of. I walked the south edge of the Jackie O Reservoir in Central Park. Merely poked my head in and looked up into the Guggenheim. Found quirky things at streetside. Dodged occasional squalls by ducking into doorways. And came across a window display at Chanel that enchants me still.
I allowed myself to NOT “see all of New York”, which freed me to accept the days as they unfolded without pressure. This was a trip to break the ice.
By the end of the day, and with the sky growing gray, feet tired, ready to sit, ready to write, I was “feelin’ groovy” at the west end of the 59th Street Bridge and found a relaxed place to sit with an open window wall to the street and the storm. I had a bite to eat, a sip to drink and plenty of pages in my journal.
Italian sausage with kraut
Italian sausage with kraut and a little mustard on the steps of the Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Metropolitan Museum of Art stairway crowd before the squall passed through.
Expressively-dressed woman
Dressing with color and her own sense of flair.
Garbage cans with style
Attractively-designed garbage cans in Central Park.
Guggenheim Museum facade
The broad, sweeping, sculpture of the museum facade.
MO at the Guggenheim
I couldn’t resist.
Wall Street subway stop
Worth riding the subway just to see the mosaics.
59th Street Bridge subway stop
The subway platforms really have a lot of beauty for those willing to see it.
Art 2 Poster
Poster for ART 2: An International Platform on Contemporary Art.
Yet another M
This M scribed into concrete and filling with pebbles.
Grand Central Station
I just had to come up out of the subway and step into Grand Central to shoot a couple pictures, even though it meant paying another fare to get right back into the subway.
Ducking in out of the squall
At the end of the ‘Feelin’ Groovy Bridge’ (59th Street Bridge) for a bite to eat, a sip of wine and some time with my journal.
Copper ribbon text
Innovative window display at Chanel. The artist took thin copper ribbon, about 1/16″ wide, and kinked and twisted it so that it’s shadow wrote out a phrase. The whole thing was about 18″ wide. There were several different phrases rendered.
For the next day, Sunday, I had “signed up” for a brisk, whirlwind walking tour with Richard. He, his father and I had met at a B&B in Palermo, Sicily 3 years ago and had enjoyed exploring Palermo and Monreale together. I was finally taking him up on the offer he made then of a walking tour of New York City. We really beat feet! We started at The Highline in Chelsea, and leisurely walked from end to end. This had been a “must” on my list. (Seattle, take note of the Highline as the Viaduct comes down.) We also touched the West Village, the Abbottega Ristorante, Greenwich Village, SoHo, Little Italy, the Caffè Roma for Gelato, Chinatown, the Lower East Side, Katz’s Deli, the Financial District, the Municipal Building and City Hall. Richard and I walked across the Brooklyn Bridge as the afternoon waned, with plenty of time for photos, and ended in Carroll Gardens for a farewell dinner with Alta and Jonah.
Whirlwind Tour Guide, Richard.
My NYC Whirlwind Tour Guide, Richard, as we strolled the length of the Highline.
Highline New Construction
The Chelsea Highline has attracted new construction, refurbishing of old construction and a revitalized buzz in and about the area.
More Damn Traffic
“Honey, I twisted through more damn traffic today.”
Highline Transition
This is an elegant transition between paved walkways and planting areas up on The Highline. Where can I apply this concept?
Blue-on-Blue along the Highline
This amused my eye.
An M for my collection
Of course I “collect” the letter “M”.
Little Italy
Heading into Little Italy on a lovely day.
Ricotta and mozzarella
Alluvia. Oldest cheese store in America.
Another M
Much like the Metro M in Milano.
Street graphics
Repetition of one poster creates strong pattern and is very eye-catching. I see this in Milan, too.
Sam’s Knitwear
In 1948, Sam arrived in New York from Europe. After years of working odd jobs, he opened up Sam’s Knitwear on Orchard Street on the Lower East Side.
World hats and fragrances
Just love some of the old, long-time shops. How long have they been there?
BIKE is also a four letter word
Bike pile.
Beauty & Essex
Layered, old and new signage.
Iron contrast
Pleasing forms.
Blue-on-Blue at Essex
Ooo, such color!
Old tower. New tower.
Certain contrasts.
Stumble on the unexpected
Inspiring and sage.
Clever
How many people walk past this and chuckle?
Vintage Pepsi-Cola
The vintage Pepsi-Cola sign at the Gantry Plaza State Park in Long Island City, Queens.
Painted out
Random, abstract blocks of gray.
Doing what he loves
Artwork by Mike Tuscia. Doing what he loves in his chapter two.
Revitalization or gentrification?
Revitalization or gentrification or one-and-the-same?
Citizen M
A curious collage.
Across from the Tenement Museum
The view looking up, across the street.
Manhattan Mini Storage Ad
I was told that Manhattan Mini Storage has some clever ads.
Zombie Gnomes
Zombie Gnomes seen on an evening stroll.
Doorway under the Brooklyn Bridge
Is that doorway still in use? Access to the works?
Brooklyn Bridge cables
Looking up through the cables of the Brooklyn Bridge
City view
From the Brooklyn Bridge.
City view from the Brooklyn Bridge
City view from the Brooklyn Bridge, with Richard at right.
Pickle Selection
Left to right: Full sour, half sour and dill. Mmmm.
Farewell dinner
Farewell dinner with Richard, Alta and Jonah.
One arrow points elsewhere
Can you find the one arrow that points elsewhere?
NYC Skyline
From across the East River at Long Island City
Streetside Farewell Lunch
My streetside, farewell lunch of mussels with fennel, celery, garlic, onion in a delicious broth. Alta and I shared conversation and a meal before I caught the Air Train to JFK.
by Maureen | May 28, 2013 | Featured Articles, Genova, Incredible Locations, Italy, Journal, People, Photos, Sanremo
Mention a trip to the “Italian Riviera” and one envisions palm trees, beaches, hot sun and relaxation. In fact, Russia had a heat wave that forced the cold polar air south to Italy, so it was very mixed and generally chilly weather along the Ligurian Sea in Italy over the weekend.
When I was living here in Italy for an extended period (June 2009 – July 2010), I rented an apartment from Sandra, who lives in Sanremo. I met her in person 4 months after I had arrived in Milano, when I spoke limited Italian. But she, her husband, Mauro, daughter, Valeria, and I sat and chatted as best we could. At the end of our chat, she invited me to come visit them sometime.
I took the train to go see them in February 2010, after which Sandra said, “You always have a place here with us.” I’ve have now been there five times. A trip to see them has become a requisite “must-do” for me while in Italy.
The four-hour train ride takes us up and over the hills from Milano to the port city of Genova (what Americans call “Genoa”). At that station I had 15 minutes to transfer to the slow train to travel along the Ligurian Sea shoreline, stopping at a half dozen towns along the way until we arrived at Sanremo.
Just a stone’s throw from the border with France and Monaco, Sanremo is a destination for tourists enjoying the lovely setting and climate, the casino, and the yearly musical festival. There are street markets, beach umbrellas for rent, historic centers and gala events. Traffic is chaos and life is beautiful.
See more pictures and read more stories about other visits to Sanremo:
“Pinch Me”
“Sanremo on the Riviera”
“Signs of Sanremo”
“Home Construction, Italian Style”
“Storm and a Blue-sky Day in Sanremo”
“A Ligurian Lunch”
“Sardenara – Not Quite Pizza with Anchovies”
Milano had been having a crashing, pouring rain all night and all morning, and I had to walk to the subway station to then get to the train station. I hate having wet feet and imagined having my shoes drenched and cold for 4 hours on the train. So I tied plastic bags onto my feet. So very chic. So high-fashion. (Somehow they got damp anyway.)
It would be fine with me not to see McD’s in my life ever again so it pissed me off to see their ads plastered onto every turnstile at the Milano Centrale train station. Damn. Hate that.
I was standing at the train platform, looking up to the Genovese hills. (Click to enlarge.)
People watching while waiting for the train in Genova. (Click to enlarge.)
We encountered sunshine along the coast, close to Genova and Savona, but then it got grayer and cooler as we approached Sanremo. (Click to enlarge.)
Riding along the sea, so blue in the sunshine. (Click to enlarge.)
Sandra was making her wonderful Ligurian-specific “Sardenara”. It’s “not-quite-pizza”, with anchovies, Ligurian Taggiasche olives, tomato sauce and garlic. (Click to enlarge.)
Sandra, Mauro and Angelo stand on the deck of Angelo and Renata’s new house that’s near completion, right at the Ligurian shoreline. (Click to enlarge.)
Sanremo is known for the flowers it grows for Europe. These are some of the many greenhouses on the hills.
We spent some time watching the Giro d’Italia. The poor cyclists rode amidst snow fields and glaciers in the pouring rain.
In the Sanremo train station waiting to head home. Here’s the automated restroom, coin-operated and self cleaning. I think the whole stall hoses itself down after each use. (Click to enlarge.)
My train compartment fellow travelers for part of the ride from home. A cross-section of the world was represented here and we all enjoyed the varied chat. (Click to enlarge.)
These red-and-white striped chimneys were Dr. Seuss-like against the storm blue sky on the way home.
by Maureen | Jun 15, 2011 | Incredible Locations, Introspection, Journal, Quips, Venezia - Venice
“I think I’ll go to Venice for the day…”
It’s so outlandish to say that, and it’s not often that I CAN just go to Venice for the day, that I’m going to! I bought train tickets for tomorrow and will leave in the morning, wander around, have a nice meal or two at the good restaurants I know there, then come home in the evening.
The train trip is about two and a half hours each way and has none of the stress of driving a car somewhere. (And I’ve driven much farther/longer than that for the day!)
The Biennale di Venezia International Art Exhibition is on right now, so the place will be packed with people and art in every corner.
And I know a few people there, so I can stop and say “ciao”.
A little Venetian jaunt as my last hurrah before I leave next week. How perfect. (I love Venice.)
by Maureen | Jun 8, 2011 | Incredible Locations, Journal, Rovereto, Sirmione
It began with a Campari bottle. A classic design they’ve used for decades. Hmm. Curious. I googled it and found that the bottle was designed by Italian artist and designer, Fortunato Depero, in 1932. I also found out that he was the initiator of the Italian Futurist Art movement and that there’s a museum exhibiting 3,000 of his works in Rovereto, Italy: Casa Depero. There’s also quite an extensive and beautiful modern art museum associated with it: MART.
Where’s Rovereto? It’s way up in the northeast of Italy, north of Verona, northwest of Venezia, close to the northern shore of Lago Di Garda – Lake Garda – and not far from both Austria and Switzerland. Rovereto is in the Trentino-Alto Adige region of Italy. (The best bread I’ve found in Milano is from a deli with food of this region, Austrian-inspired.)
At noon, a cab ride brought me from Sirmione, where I had been for one day, back to the train station at Desenzano. Then I trained to Verona, changed trains and rode along the lake’s eastern shore and the Adige River to Rovereto.
So, here I am for three days, with museums on my agenda. I don’t have Internet in my room, so I’m sitting here at the library. I’m writing on my iPad and still haven’t figured out how to upload photos from here, so there aren’t any images for these few days and will be added later.
My camera is malfunctioning (!!!) and I have no control over the flash, the color balance or exposure (!!!) but I CAN still gather images. (I stopped into a camera store in the middle of tourist-ville today just to check on worst case scenario prices if I feel compelled to buy a new camera to use during the rest of my time here. Yikes. I hate to do that. Technology is pricey in Italy, and the exchange rate is terrible right now.)
The cab dropped me at my B&B and I immediately loved it: B&B Casa Bettini. On a narrow street in the historic area. Beautifully but simply refurbished. a perfect home base for these few days.
I dropped my bags and started walking, malfunctioning camera in hand. Rovereto is charming, intriguing, photogenic and historic. The city has much to offer a visitor yet it seems that there are only locals walking around. There’s the photographic exploration that I enjoy so much, the art and other museums, shopping for those so inclined, narrow passageways to explore, a castle and surrounding hillsides that create a beautiful environment. Plan part of your next Italian vacation here: as-yet-undiscovered Rovereto. (I checked and couldn’t find it mentioned anywhere on Rick Steve’s web site. Get here before he does!)
So I will gladly stroll this town ’til Saturday morning. It tickles me at every turn.
(Now I’m off to find a dinner of the typical foods of the area. Ciao!)
by Maureen | May 14, 2011 | Church, Incredible Locations, Journal, Lecce, People, Photos, Puglia, South Italy Tour
Almost, but not quite at the tippy-tip of the “heel of the boot” of Italy, the city of Lecce (roughly pronounced “lay-chay“) has much more to marvel at than is possible in two short days. With its Roman amphitheater smack in the middle of the town square, its over-the-top Baroque architecture, castles, parks, a duomo… plenty of fabulous Pugliese food, and some very nice people, I easily recommend Lecce as a destination to explore.
I walked both the main paths and the narrow side streets of the centro storico – the historic center of the walled city. And I strolled along the neighborhood side streets far from the tourist buzz, to get a broader view.
The front of Lecce’s Duomo:
The porta at the Chiesa di SS. Niccoló e Cataldo:
Fotosport:
Castello di Carlo V:
Mimmino, the meat cutter. I wandered into a little market to buy a mixed bag of food to eat for a strolling lunch. He sold me meat, olives and water. Another vendor sold me nespole – loquats.
Piazza del Duomo in the late afternoon:
Also staying at the Torre del Parco were Ted, Greer, Deb and John, cyclists from Boston. I envied them their giro in bici – bike tour – of Puglia! They were following a self-guided tour arranged by a small company. (I’m turning green.)
Hotelmates on a sunny morning:
“Leave the passageway clear”:
What era does this signage spring from?
The amphitheater by day:
Such a combination of textures and details:
A tricolore balcony. Since Italy just celebrated its 150th anniversary this spring, the flag is displayed abundantly around the country.
A “bar” in Italy is not the same as a “bar” in the U.S. Go to a bar for coffee, water, sandwiches, snacks, pastries… or a drink.
What an abundance of antennas!
I was walking on a distant side street shooting photos of signs, and a man started talking to me about his friend, Vito:
Vito happened to be inside giving a haircut:
As I unintentionally made a short walk into a long walk on my way to the train station out of Lecce (it’s a long story), I saw the track-sides filled with poppies, which are also blooming all over Italy right now.
by Maureen | May 13, 2011 | Calabria, Introspection, Journal, Puglia, Quips, South Italy Tour
May 13 Journal Entry. Catanzaro Lido to Lecce.
Training along the Ionian Sea shoreline: Red poppies. Cactus. Olives & grapes. Palms & pines. May is a lovely, ideal time to be traveling here, sunny, pleasantly warm. A breeze from the sea and no mosquitoes. But I look out and can imagine the late-summer heat and its sweaty days. I can conjure the oppressive closeness of the Mediterranean humidity and the desire for cold water and moving air. This late spring is a golden time for citizens to savor.
by Maureen | May 11, 2011 | Cheese, Discoveries, Food!, Incredible Locations, Journal, Meals, Messina, Quips, Sicily, South Italy Tour, Taormina
Haven’t you always heard of “the straits of Messina”?
Today I took a train from Taormina, about halfway down the east coast of Sicily, up to the northeastern point of the large island, at Messina. I wondered how this would work, since my train ticket included going up the northwest-facing shoreline of Italy. There was about an hour and a half of finagling, I’ve been told longer than usual, but they split the eight-car train into two parts, and then individually pushed the two halves onto a large ferry. We eventually got back underway across the waters of the Straits of Messina. I was riding ON a train ON a boat! How cool is that!?
While underway, I went up onto the passenger deck to enjoy the view and the breeze.
At the snack bar, I bought “arancini”, a deep fried rice ball filled with Ragu sauce and cheese – a Sicillian typical food – plus some sparkling water with which to wash it down. The sun was shining, the water was calm.
Now I’ll have to Google “The Straits” to see what it says.
by Maureen | Jul 24, 2010 | Introspection, Journal, Quips
One week from today, at this time, I will have schlepped my bags by taxi and train to Milano Malpensa airport; checked in, with machine gun carrying guards in the mezzanine above me; gone through security; waited; flown over the Alps to London two hours north; gone through security again; eaten an airport meal; wound my way through Heathrow; boarded, gotten settled and begun my 9 hour flight back to Seattle.
I just went grocery shopping. What favorite foods do I want to eat again (and again) before I go? I bought bresaola, and mortadella with pistachios, buffalo milk fresh mozzarella, fresh figs and sicilian tomatoes. One (or two) more meals of octopus? Who do I want to see and say goodbye to? How many more last hurrahs with my girlfriends? Where do I want to go? What will wish I had photographed?
As I buy groceries and supplies this week, I have to calculate how much I can use in six days. As I go for a bike ride, or subway ride, I have to realize it may be the last one (for a long while).
From a journal entry today:
“I have grown a sweet affection for this country. It’s not the starry-eyed, naive enthusiasm of a tourist’s love of the sights. But it’s a complex recognition of the quirks, an all-too-recent connection with individuals along my path, the creation for myself of a way of being, and as yet, merely a hint of who these people are. How can I stay away for long? I am leaving a part of myself here, and have lodged a part of Italy in my heart, to carry with me. Under what circumstances will I return, and for how long?”
by Maureen | Feb 1, 2010 | Bologna, Discoveries, Food!, Incredible Locations, Journal, Meals, Photos
OK. So add Bologna to my list of amazing places to visit in Italy. It’s right up there with Venice, (which makes me swoon). I have a feeling the list will get VERY long.
A girlfriend from my Italian class had mentioned the citywide art fair, Bologna Arte Fiera, that was going on for a month starting 29 January. “Why don’t you come?”, she suggested. I quickly put plans in place and then hopped on the train Saturday morning.
(Side note: I had bought a ticket for the Frecciarossa fast train, which takes 1 hour instead of 3 and costs 41 euro instead of 11. I read the reader board, saw a train listed for Bologna – but with a 5 minute later departure than my scheduled train – and then hopped on the train and got settled into my seat. An hour into the ride, we weren’t even halfway there and were stopping at every little train station along the way. Uh-oh. I goofed. I had hopped on the slow train instead! Clearly I haven’t learned all the little details yet! Oh well. So I arrived later and saw each little town from the trackside. If there’s one thing I’m learning by being here, it’s to take things in stride, and let them roll off me.)
When I arrived in Bologna I walked a short distance to my hotel, I Portici, dropped my few things in the room then left and took off walking, having no idea where I was going or what there was to see! (Since making this trip was a spontaneous decision, I had only glanced at the site for the art fair, but not Bologna itself.)
I followed my “rule” of exploring the back streets, and found a little restaurant, Re Enzo Ristorante. As I was perusing the menu, the owner/waiter hustled past me with a cloud of truffle scent following him. That made my decision easy! “Scialatelli con Porcini e Tartuffo Bianco” – a wide, flat pasta noodle with porcini mushrooms and white truffles. I added some grilled vegetables to my table, and a nice Sangiovese to sip and the lunch was delicious.
Well-fortified and hunger sated, I started walking around town taking turns whenever I wished and found my way to the historic center of Bologna, Piazza Maggiore. It was a chilly, cold day, but I was bundled up and ready for walking.
by Maureen | Aug 9, 2009 | Introspection, Journal, Quips
9 Agosto 2009 – Sunday. On the Northbound Train
“The Full Italian Experience”
Fellini would do a good job with this. Train ride home to Milano. (Yes, please!) Left Napoli just before 1:00. Arrived in Rome at about 2:00. Japanese passengers 1 seat away just got robbed, on board, of their wallets. (Gypsies got on the train and made a commotion about seat assignments, then took advantage of the disarray they had caused.) Afraid of further loss, the Japanese cable-locked their huge suitcase, IN the aisle-way, to their seat armrest. Spanish travelers just got on the train and couldn’t get past the big suitcase. The conductor came on board and told the theft-victims there was nothing the local authorities could do about the wallets. He asked the Japanese man to stow the suitcase at the end of the rail car. (Right! They just lost everything else. Now stow the bag out of sight and surveillance?) The baby next to me is screaming. Her Napolitana mother remembered her own Coca-cola and sandwich, but forgot the baby’s bottle.
Three hours to go.
(Written while on the train, but no internet connection available, so this is posted from the comfort of my wonderful apartment in Milano. Ahhh. Home!)
